Most of us would like more fuel capacity-
Rally Raid do 4.5 + 4.5 up front and 5 on the rear rhs, so thats 14 + the stock 12 = 26
Safari do a 14 which is mounted high + the stock 12 = 26

Dalby Moto in Oz - http://www.dalbymoto.com.au/images/stories/otflyers/KTM%20700RR%20Test.pdf
 - have made 9 + 9 up front + the stock 12 = 30

They built these tanks for their Rally kit, however they've just released a 2/3rd kit for $4390.00 aud which include the tanks, rally exhaust, skid plate etc -  see pics below.

I've asked them if they would do a 1/3rd kit, basically just tanks only to suit the stock exhaust as personally I don't want the low rally type exhaust.
Would anyone else be interested in an additional 18 liters to suit the stock exhaust?
If I can show them there's interest they might consider doing these tanks for the stock exhaust......

I just followed Rusty Shovels post idea and Im much happier with the lighting on my 2015.
The issue before was how low beam gave good light in close and to the sides, then this was gone when high beam came on which lit up more further in front and to a point out to the trees on the sides of the road.
So with low beam on I saw everything in close but nothing further away...
With high beam on I saw things further away but nothing in close.
I live out in the rural area with no street lights and being in Northern Australia we have literally hundreds of stupid wallabies and kangaroos hell bent on kamikaze action.
Now on high beam it still runs low beam so a lot more of the immediate forward area is illuminated.
Is it as good as additional dedicated spot / flood lights? - No, but it is a free 5 min job that drastically improves whats already there and probably good enough to stop going ahead with additional lights for some people.

I did try starting the bike after the mod with the high beam on and noticed the starter being a bit sluggish from the additional load on the battery but it still started ok, just start it in low beam only.
I also noticed a bit more head light heat when the bike was parked with the high beam on, it didnt hurt anything but I will make sure high beam is on only when Im moving.

Cheers

Problem:
The two element incandescent bulb (BA20D) used on the EXC model line and 2009 690 is too dim.

Solution:
Have both low and high beam elements on at same time 35 + 35 = 70 watts possible when high beam is on.

Procedure:
In the white connector used to disconect headlight shell from bike there are four wires. Blue(high), Green(low), White(park), Brown (Negative). The wires are held in white connector with tiny barbs on the blades. Use jewelers screw driver to push down on barb and another driver to gently push out blade. Change green and white wire postions in the connector.

Test after connected:
Low beam is the same ,one bulb element on and park light on.
High beam has both elements in headlight bulb on and park light off.

Things to consider:

I have not tested this on actual ride as the snow lies deep in Calgary, Canada.

All wires are the same gauge and on the same fuse so probably on same relay so circuit should take the power with just adding another 35 watts being used at the same time.

Others are using adapters to put in hotter Halogen bulbs so I believe the reflector can take the heat of 70 watts.

I would be interested if other inmates could do further tests.

After owning a 2002 Honda CRE500 since new and finding parts drying up (Honda Australia Road legal Enduro model) I purchased what I thought would be the best bike for my type of riding, the 2015 500exc.
I found it to be a great machine so I started doing longer and longer rides than Id ever done before like 250k's in a day, let me tell you after an hour on the exc its hard to sit down on the seat for more than a few minutes especially since Im short so have fitted the KTM low seat, about as comfortable as a piece of railway iron.
After less than a year this bike was not enough anymore, little did I know I was actually morphing into an Enduro / Adventure rider.
So after much homework and having never seen a 690 in the flesh I bought a 2015 690 enduro r.
First ride I was just as interested in its beauty as I was gob smacked by how clumsy it was, but the ability to ride such long distances in relative comfort was a new feeling for me, compared to my other bikes.

So Ive researched just about every site available to help choose which modifications I will make and what products I will use on the 690.

To date Ive got 2500k's on it, Ive planned to spend a year or two getting it ready for a long distance tourer as I plan to ride across Australia on her, from the top, down the West, across the Center, then back up the East, probably around 15000 kilometers either by myself or with some friends if they get bikes (they are looking at DR's & KLR's)

So far Ive done a 350k ride and a 565k ride, both day trips on mostly dirt.

For me the order of modifications just to get it up to a decent day tripper went like this:

1. Steering Stops on day 1 after nearly dropping it due to its poor turning circle.
2. Wings Silencer after the stock burnt my 10yo son.
3. High flow Uni air filter.
4. KTM Rally pegs (the stockers are way to small IMO and the wider pegs make the bike a dream to ride)
5. Wide foot for the side stand (nearly fell over a few times in soft soil)
6. 16 tooth front sprocket - best upgrade to date besides the pegs, kind of WR transmission now with acceptable 1st gear crawl speed and great highway ability.
7. Double take 'adventure' mirrors - way better looking than the enduro mirrors IMO and they sit snug with the curves of the bike.
8. Scott billet rear disc guard.
9. Kenda Big Block tyres, UHD tubes and rim locks - balanced (I made a small mistake by ordering the rear 150 trying to get more rubber on the ground but the wide tyre has curved a lot to fit the rim.
* one thing I found when I did the tyres was that the stock rim strip isnt adequate to stop the sharp edges of the spoke nipples, there was evidence that this would be a potential tube killer so I taped the spoke nipples also.

The big ticket items Im chipping away at now (after much research) to get her long range capable:

*KTM wind screen
*Rally Raid Radiator Guard
*Rally Raid tank bolts mod
*Increased fuel capacity (undecided on what but maybe a Safari tank due to bigger size & lesser price than Rally Raids)
*Rally Raid luggage racks
*B&B engine guard, front sprocket guard & rear luggage rack - http://bboffroad.com.au/shop/online-brands/ktm-products.html?model=168
*Andys Straps soft panniers - http://www.andystrapz.com/products.php?productCategoryId=22&Level=1
*Navigation - Undecided
*And of course camping gear

For me the 690 has practically made my 500exc redundant, but Im reluctant to let the exc go as it is a great bush weapon or at least better suited to ride with my sons on their bikes.
My CRE500 is officially retired although it goes to the pub for a beer once every 6 months.

Hey all,

This is my 1st dirt bike that doesn't have rim locks and I can't get my head around it.
I'm about to fit some Kenda big blocks so I'm worried she might spin a tyre and rip off a valve stem.
Even though I don't race this bike I'm still concerned as I'm not used to running without rim locks and yes there are times when I rip into it, who can't with such a sweet motor?

Do any other ktm690 owners fit rim locks or are they fine without them?

Do I need to run higher air pressure without rim locks for it to be trustworthy?

Cheers

Today I rode a total of 349 kilometres with the new 16/45'gearing, mostly on dirt roads, some bitumen and some tight single trails.

Firstly I was amazed at my fuel economy, my first refuel was at 218.5 kilometres and she used 8.52 litres, which is 3.9 litres / 100k's or 60.3 (US) mpg.
This is a theoretical 300 kilometres from the stock tank.

I wasn't out for economy records and I wasn't stonking along, just adventuring.

1st gear was good down to 10kph, under this the clutch came into play.

6th gear is now like an overdrive, for me 16/45 is far better than the stock gearing, but I don't do tight trails.
What I appreciated most is how my engine is now accumulating way less rpm for the same given distance.

Hi All,

I ride a lot of fast open dirt roads with long distances to cover so I need my 2015 to cruise faster.
Im looking at fitting a 16T with the stock 45 rear for the ratio of 2.81.
However I also believe the more teeth on the sprockets the longer they last * more teeth + more chain = more to share the wear.
So gearing my bike 17/48 is very close to 16/45.
48T rear also happens to be the smallest Stealth sprocket.

What I cant find anywhere is: will a 17T fit up front without any issues??
Also is the 16T or 17T sprockets rubberized like the stock 15T?

Thanks in advance for any help