2011 690R with Akra can and Evo 1 airbox cover. Using TuneECU with the Evo 1 map, modified with 1% additional fuel at idle to prevent intermittent stalling.

Apologies for all the questions from a forum newbie. Y'all have caught me during a period of clueless spannering.

I have a 2011 with an Akrapovic silencer. The bike suffered from terribly snatchy FI when I acquired it but I've almost completely cured this by switching the paper air filter for a KTM "off road" foam filter, installing a G2 throttle cam (using the "medium" cam profile) and installing the Evo 1 maps via TuneECU. With this setup the bike (finally!) runs perfectly with wonderfully smooth throttle response and none of trhe previously-experienced popping and banging when overrun. However... when the engine is hot it has a tendency to stall off idle or at low revs (when approaching a road junction for example) and while it restarts easily enough, it usually takes 2 or 3 attempts before it will run without immediately re-stalling when I touch the throttle. This is somewhat irritating.

When I installed the Evo 1 maps I did the throttle calibration and 15 minutes adaptation processes (during which the bike stalled a couple of times but was immediately restarted as per recommendations). While doing due dilligence and searching the 'net for a solution to this problem, it became clear that there's no universally-accepted solution, probably due to the fact that there seems to be so many variations of the symptoms.

So, my question is whether any of my betters (but not necessarily elders) on here have any suggestions on how to approach this? TPS check/reset? Would simply raising the idle speed resolve it? I ask rather than try because while I've been riding and stripping small-bore 2 stroke trials bikes for years, the apparent complexity of this FI-ed 4 stroke still scares me right now. All comments and suggestions are much appreciated!

Is there any reason why I shouldn't have multiple devices (battery charger adapter, USB socket, cigarette lighter socket) connected directly to the battery (apart from the fact that it makes it very difficult to get the live terminal cover on and results in a plate of spaghetti under the seat)? All the devices in question are switched so that there's no continuous drain. It just seems that there must be a better way... what have other people done? Ideally I'd like to patch into the lighting circuit so that the USB port at least is only powered when the ignition is on but I'm pretty electrically clueless and not sure where to start.

All advice gratefully received!