Author Topic: Tank Bolt Replacement Walkthrough  (Read 1281 times)

Rusty Shovel

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Tank Bolt Replacement Walkthrough
« on: December 24, 2013, 02:04:08 pm »
The Enduro 690 has a known issue with it's tank bolts.  I wonder if this has been addressed in 2014?

Either way, here's a great video walkthrough describing the preventive replacement of these troublesome bolts:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=DOBVgYVZJw4#t=2

http://youtu.be/DOBVgYVZJw4
« Last Edit: April 01, 2014, 03:52:02 pm by Rusty Shovel »
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2014 KTM 690 Enduro R

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seabeegt

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Re: Tank Bolt Replacement Walkthrough
« Reply #1 on: February 03, 2014, 10:13:18 am »
Cool! Thanks for the 411 bro. Where's a good site to order them replacement bolts?  ???
Shay with tha guage and Nilla with tha nine.... word to your mutha.

Rusty Shovel

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Re: Tank Bolt Replacement Walkthrough
« Reply #2 on: February 04, 2014, 06:59:12 am »
Cool! Thanks for the 411 bro. Where's a good site to order them replacement bolts?  ???

Sorry, I should've provided a link.  Rally Raid sells em: http://www.rally-raidproducts.co.uk

Upper Tank Bolts:  http://www.rally-raidproducts.co.uk/KTM-690-Enduro-R-SMC/performance-upgrades/ktm-690-subframe-tank-mounting-bolts



Lower Tank Mount: http://www.rally-raidproducts.co.uk/ktm-690-lower-tank-bolt-repair-kit



Kinda expensive, but if you're about go RTW or ride the TAT, this preventive measure might make sense for you.
« Last Edit: February 04, 2014, 07:38:17 am by Rusty Shovel »
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coarsegoldkid

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Re: Tank Bolt Replacement Walkthrough
« Reply #3 on: February 07, 2014, 01:35:54 pm »
I think you can get them stateside too. 

The bottom one can be problematic to extract.  I used my pneumatic wrench as directed to loosen the bolts.  The right side went well.  The left side broke the bolt inside the threaded sleeve.  However since all you really have to do is remove one bolt and then tap out the sleeve through the opposite side all is not lost.

The replacement set up is just a sleeve as in no threads and one long bolt.  The sleeve required a slight wiggle/push to fit between the frame members when bringing the tank downward in place.  The stock upper bolt comes right out. 

The kit requires that you dig into the innards a bit more. Removal of the stock air box is required.  All of this stuff is required removal for the valve check anyway.  So I would just wait until that task comes around.  I didn't because I was going to be carrying luggage in rugged terrain sooner than checking the valves.  While I was doing this task I had lifted the tank to gain access to the rear shock so some of what I say may or may not be required for the subframe mod. So if you must lift the tank the top bolts must be in place to pivot the tank up and secure the tank with a tye down or other method.

Begin by removing airbox cover.  You may need a new filter by now anyway.  There are screws on either side of the air box that holds it to the chassis.  They will need to be removed.  I also removed the front screw on the left side and not the right side for some reason.  Both may be better. 

Now loosen the airbox manifoild clamp to FI body as much as you feel needed.  I think I had one thread holding the clamp together. 

Now lift the airbox with a firm, like you mean it pull , to get the rubber manifold to part company with the FI body. 

Easy enough to remove the stock upper bolt. Access to screw in the 6mm bolt from the kit now presents itself. 

You'll be done in minutes.  Pop the manifold back on, tighten it all up. Find the screw you kicked away and finish the airbox installation.

When done smile at your bike.  Have a beer.
« Last Edit: April 01, 2014, 03:56:56 pm by Rusty Shovel »

seabeegt

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Re: Tank Bolt Replacement Walkthrough
« Reply #4 on: March 31, 2014, 06:44:38 am »
Lol. I like the tutorial write up. Add some pictures and it'd be bulletproof  8)
Shay with tha guage and Nilla with tha nine.... word to your mutha.

coarsegoldkid

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Re: Tank Bolt Replacement Walkthrough
« Reply #5 on: April 13, 2014, 02:57:02 pm »
I've discovered a downside to this mod for, at least, me.   Upon close inspection between my bide and unmodified 690 the RR upper bolt does not allow the side panel to rest flush with the tank.   6 or 7 times now my boot top has hooked under the side panel.  I can assure you that when it happens move your foot it strikes panic because your foot cannot move freely.  I've already popped a plastic rivet out from the construction of the my right SIDI Crossfires while forcing my leg free from under the panel.  This week I'll look into what needs to be done to correct the situation.  I suspect it will require some lathe and milling work.  Your mileage may vary.

April 15 2014
I'm having the stock upper tank bolt modified to mimic the "under compression design" of the RR part yet be low profile so the side cover doesn't give me problems.  I should know soon if this works out.

April 20 2014
My fix worked just fine. The threaded nipple on the stock part was cut off.  The barrel of the part was drilled and tapped for 8mm with just enough 6mm remaining. While I was at it I discovered that the nut welded to the frame was no longer welded. Now re-welded.  Bye the way KTM orange and Rustoleum Orange with primer in the can is almost an exact match.
« Last Edit: April 20, 2014, 11:50:29 am by coarsegoldkid »

Milesofsmiles

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Re: Tank Bolt Replacement Walkthrough
« Reply #6 on: November 13, 2015, 09:13:02 pm »
I just did tank bolt replacement using Perun Moto bolt replacement kit. Good stuff and Nikola gets it out the door promptly. 2014 bikes still have this issue.

Remove air box, battery, all plastic, loosen top bolts, use an impact gun on left side bottom torq bolt, remove bottom bolt completely, unhook gas line by battery then lift tank up from rear. Keep lofted using tie downs to handlebars. Remove rubber grommets on tank bottom, install new grommets and stainless tube, lower tank down into place. You may need to file the stainless tube to fit. Install new bolts and torq to 10nm. Now, replace top bolts using loctite blue. Tighten to 15nm. Oh don't forget to remove exhaust bolts on top and where it fits into exhaust pipe. Put exhaust bolts back in when finished to 25nm.

It's a complete pain in the arse but worth the worry free results.