Author Topic: optimal gearing  (Read 659 times)

brian68

  • Traveler
  • **
  • Posts: 40
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Location: Philo, Ohio
    • View Profile
optimal gearing
« on: May 10, 2015, 03:00:42 pm »
been debating on gearing options. comparing actual speeds vs gearing calculator. I find that i run about 104-108 , in 6th  to about 108 then slow after that .  so i think by going to a 48 rear i won't lose any top speed since i will be able to rev higher and pull the weight better. (my 260 lbs doesn't help)  And is it just me or when in map 2 yes it hits harder down low but loses up top. slower 8000-9000.  map 3 smoother but rev's to 9000 easier?  btw 2014 model

Social Buttons


brian68

  • Traveler
  • **
  • Posts: 40
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Location: Philo, Ohio
    • View Profile
Re: optimal gearing
« Reply #1 on: September 06, 2015, 10:29:03 am »
well i ended up with a 48t rear. which is equal to one tooth smaller in the front. I find it nice for offroad riding, but did not like it on the street. The motor did not seem to rev faster , or it did just not as much as i thought it should. it acts like it has a heavy flywheel, or that the ecu limits the motor. I have heard alot of people complain about 690's having a light flywheel which causes them to stall easy. I looked up the part # and indeed pre 14's do have a different part # . So ktm took the easy way out . If it is a combination of flywheel/ecu then i would think that gearing it faster . like a duke will make the bike faster. Down the road i will have to pick up a older flywheel and compare them hopefully they are interchangeable, if not maybe that is the reason for the different part #.  anyone have an older 690 and a newer one 2014-2015. if so what do you think? i know it will be a hard comparison since the new ones make more power. any thoughts?

ShakeWell

  • Explorer
  • ***
  • Posts: 80
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Location: Rancho Cucamonga, CA
    • View Profile
Re: optimal gearing
« Reply #2 on: September 07, 2015, 11:42:53 am »

I'm currently running 14/46 and it's working well for me. Within an hour from my driveway are a variety of terrain options; single/double track, FSR, graded roads, gravel and open desert. I can hold 75mph at around 6k and topped out at 104 (speedo indicated) on the dry lake bed at El Mirage while 1st/2nd are better for technical stuff than when the bike was delivered.

As far as your advanced setting going flat at the higher rpm's, have you replaced the stock exhaust yet? My choice ended up being the header and slip-on from FMF and after a 15min idle reset, the bike pulls to the redline in 6th with no problem and no noticeable dip in power.

One added note, when I swapped the counter shaft sprocket to the 14, I went with a regular sprocket vs the rubberized version and the chain lash/noise is noticable. I'll be ordering a 14 with the rubber cushioning with my next parts purchase.
2014 690 R, Rekluse, PowerCommander V, Rottweiler Intake, FMF, Scott's, Renzacco Seat, HDB handguards, MGTec levers, full sas removed, Pivot Pegs

thedubsack85

  • Wanderer
  • *
  • Posts: 14
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Location: Thousand oaks
    • View Profile
Re: optimal gearing
« Reply #3 on: October 21, 2015, 12:26:43 pm »
oops wrong post. my bad

SLAP75

  • Traveler
  • **
  • Posts: 38
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Location: SoCal
    • View Profile
Re: optimal gearing
« Reply #4 on: October 24, 2015, 01:04:42 pm »
So has anyone found a rubber dampened 14t countershaft sprocket like the stock 15t?  does the non dampened one make much more noise?  i want to swap mine out, but not sure i want to hear more clanging than i do already. 

Philip Pino

  • Adventurer
  • ****
  • Posts: 117
  • Karma: +3/-1
  • Oceanside, CA
  • Location: North San Diego County
    • View Profile
Re: optimal gearing
« Reply #5 on: October 25, 2015, 04:35:54 pm »
From what I've been able to find, the rubber damped sprockets are made for the bikes which will be used on the street.  The 14 tooth sprocket is deemed to low of gearing for street use and therefore used primarily on off-road bikes where you wouldn't notice the extra noise and vibration.
'14, 690 Enduro R

truck11

  • Adventurer
  • ****
  • Posts: 209
  • Karma: +2/-0
  • Sterling, VA (Northern VA - DC Metro)
  • Location: Sterling VA
    • View Profile
Re: optimal gearing
« Reply #6 on: October 26, 2015, 09:23:02 am »
I run 14t on the front with no issues or noticeable/annoying noise.  'almost' want to try a 13t
2014 690 Enduro R


SLAP75

  • Traveler
  • **
  • Posts: 38
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Location: SoCal
    • View Profile
Re: optimal gearing
« Reply #7 on: October 26, 2015, 02:10:05 pm »
cool deal, i'm going to try the 14t then. if it's not enough i'll throw a 46 on the rear. thanks for the replies.

also, what does the 14 do to the speedometer?  will i need to re-calibrate?

truck11

  • Adventurer
  • ****
  • Posts: 209
  • Karma: +2/-0
  • Sterling, VA (Northern VA - DC Metro)
  • Location: Sterling VA
    • View Profile
Re: optimal gearing
« Reply #8 on: October 26, 2015, 02:19:44 pm »
Does nothing with the speedometer - that is driven by the tires.  So, if you change your tire size, say to a 17 SM size, then you need to mess with Speedometer.
What the 14t gear will do is change your RPM's (at given speed), shift points and MPG's etc.   You will loose top end speed, but nothing too noticeable, unless you do A LOT of highway.
I would stick with 15t if doing highway to gain back MPG's.
2014 690 Enduro R


SLAP75

  • Traveler
  • **
  • Posts: 38
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Location: SoCal
    • View Profile
Re: optimal gearing
« Reply #9 on: October 26, 2015, 03:14:47 pm »
Does nothing with the speedometer - that is driven by the tires.  So, if you change your tire size, say to a 17 SM size, then you need to mess with Speedometer.
What the 14t gear will do is change your RPM's (at given speed), shift points and MPG's etc.   You will loose top end speed, but nothing too noticeable, unless you do A LOT of highway.
I would stick with 15t if doing highway to gain back MPG's.

Perfect... don't care about top end at all. i do mainly around town and local canyon runs. no commuting on this thing at all, i live a half mile from work  :D

i'm just looking for it to have a bit more bottom end and be able to lift the front end a little easier.   i currently also ride a 2014 RMZ450 on tracks, the 690 just feels weak compared. i know its the gearing... the wings exhaust helped a bit too, worth the price of admission for the sound alone...

thanks for the reply. i was hoping that was the answer