. been watching ebay to try and buy a used top end. no luck yet.

why did you change it? was it  running before? no trouble codes? try pulling the fuel line off the injector and hook up a pressure gauge and check the pressure. does it try to start?  if you have a kink in your line aka restriction it will build enough pressure to try and start or start for a couple seconds then die as the restriction won't allow it to maintain pressure.

i have 2000 miles on mine , rear is wore off in the middle and needs replaced, but still good on the hyway. the front is good for another rear. but as much as i like the rear off road and on. the front is better suited for onroad .  would like to find a better front, but maybe im expecting to much. 

i just used the front hole . it work's well.

Just wanted to share some thoughts concerning the use of the auto-tuner for the pcv.  I have used a couple different auto tuners. the problem with them is if you just turn it on and ride everytime you let off the throttle or coast it is counter productive since you dont need alot of fuel then it is constantly battling its self.  I am currently waiting on some parts for my new air filter setup, once installed I have a switch wired into my pcv, so i can turn the auto tune on and off at will.  I will find a long straight, turn it on and accelerate steadily letting the rpm's run through the area i'm working on . before letting off the throttle at the end i will switch auto tune off, turn around and repeat.  I will only work on 2 to 3 thousand rpm's at once so i can concentrate on that area .  for instance  first 2000 -4000, and so on . just only set the fuel tables to hit the area's your working in. Once you are happy with it, accept the trims and set your afr's for the next rpm's.   After all the main difference between a dyno tune and the auto tune is that the dyno can keep the engine under load constantly. so this method will get you as close as your going to get , without getting it put on a dyno. I hope to eventually put mine on a dyno, but not until i get a high comp piston , port job, cam ect. until then this will do.

well i ended up with a 48t rear. which is equal to one tooth smaller in the front. I find it nice for offroad riding, but did not like it on the street. The motor did not seem to rev faster , or it did just not as much as i thought it should. it acts like it has a heavy flywheel, or that the ecu limits the motor. I have heard alot of people complain about 690's having a light flywheel which causes them to stall easy. I looked up the part # and indeed pre 14's do have a different part # . So ktm took the easy way out . If it is a combination of flywheel/ecu then i would think that gearing it faster . like a duke will make the bike faster. Down the road i will have to pick up a older flywheel and compare them hopefully they are interchangeable, if not maybe that is the reason for the different part #.  anyone have an older 690 and a newer one 2014-2015. if so what do you think? i know it will be a hard comparison since the new ones make more power. any thoughts?

welcome . did they change your front fork springs?