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Messages - rider_marc

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690 Discussion / Re: New vs "gently used"
« on: March 13, 2017, 12:48:44 pm »
Same experience here. Watched the used 690 market since about 2013. Near new and nice versions are priced as you observed. Some had useful accessories, some had accessories I didn't want. Then, the lower priced versions were of varying conditions. When I couldn't take it anymore and had places to go and see, I bought new.

Hang around, my '17 may be for sale at the end of the year.

690 Discussion / Re: Help needed....PLEASE !!
« on: March 08, 2017, 02:35:47 pm »
Any progress? Hope things are all well again.

Introductions / Re: Texas Newbie
« on: March 08, 2017, 02:32:21 pm »
Hey there petek!

I too am at 5'8" and wanted a lower seat height. I settled for removing the nylon fork spring spacer, and taking out preload from the shock spring. Oh, and the fork tubes were push up through the top clamp at about 14mm. At 160lbs, I can tip-toe at a stop.

Off road, there are enough variables the seat height doesn't bother me. When things get technical, I get up off the seat and ride through. Did the same with the WR400F I had for 15 years. There were some crashes, and the occasional times when I just fell over because the ground wasn't close enough for a foot.  ;D  No worries, right?

I had considered the 1" Kouba link at one time. Regarding seats, there are no seats that produce a lower seat height. There is a seat labeled as "low" but it is low compared to the higher seat that is offered. A custom shaped seat could be available, or a local upholsterer may be able to help.

Just over 150 road miles on the 690 now and heading to California in about six weeks. Going to take a new MT21 rear tire as a spare. For the price, and how in the past with my KXL650 I really appreciated good off-road traction, I'll stay with the MT21's for now.

Certainly open to alternatives.

Off Topic / Obnoxious Dogs
« on: January 24, 2017, 05:31:22 pm »
Anyone annoyed by the barking of neighborhood dogs? The situation is ridiculous in this neighborhood. I can recognize the bark of nine dogs within a 200 yard radius.

One neighbor actually told me his dog had a right to bark. Eased into letting him know that he or his dog doesn't have a right to prevent others from enjoying their property--something that has evolved from common laws.

This belief of dogs being able to freely bark seems to be rampant everywhere.


Suspension / Re: Setting Sag and Adjusting Ride
« on: January 20, 2017, 11:28:08 am »
RS, that last link brought up some really bad spam content immediately after clicking on it. I won't touch it again, but it needs to be looked at or deleted. Maybe you can help with it. Thanks.

So you've heard that the KTM 690 Enduro has a great suspension, but in reality your bike pogos through rough sections or wallows in the whoops?  Most likely you're the problem, not the suspension.

But it's not your fault, bike manufacturers are forced to set up their suspensions from the factory for "the average person."  I've heard that 175 lbs is the magic rider weight, but that's anyone's guess.  Good news though, unlike most dual sports, the 690 Enduro's suspension can be adjusted to suit most any rider and load.

First off, you have to set both "Static Sag" and "Rider Sag," front and rear.  Both measurements are made while the bike is upright, so make a friend or get the dealer to help you.

Static Sag is the distance in millimeters that the bike settles under it's own weight.  Free sag is between 5% and 10% of the total travel.  The 2012 690 Enduro, for example, has 250mm of total travel, so the sag should be between 15 and 25 mm's.

Rider Sag is the amount the bike settles with the rider in riding position (feet on the pegs).  The general rule of thumb is that the sag should be 25% to 33% of the total available travel (62.5 to 82.5mm's).  If you are unable to get the total sag number you seek without either too much or too little static sag, you may need to change springs (depending on how much compromise you're willing to accept).

Set all the adjustments to stock standard settings as per the manual.  This is your starting point. The general goal is to have both the front and rear suspension compress and return at the same rate, so the bike is balanced front/rear.  Some folks have observed that from the factory the 690's front suspension is set stiffer than the rear.  YMMV.

With rebound adjustment, the bike should not "pogo" when you press down quickly on the rear suspension, or top out too fast.  Same for the front.  You might make a few small changes from stock based on pushing the suspension up and down, see how it returns.

From there, its best to make your adjustments while riding the bike.  I think the easiest thing to mess up is compression damping, having too much of it.  This will make the ride harsh, it will "ping pong" off the rocks, and be hard to hold direction.  The rear will have a "choppy" ride. Reduce your compression damping to the least you need.  As speeds increase, you may need a bit more. The 2012 manual states: 20 clicks=comfort, 15 clicks=standard, 10 clicks=sport, 10 clicks="full payload."

On rebound damping, you dont want the bike to "pack down" as though its not rebounding fast enough after hitting bumps. On the other hand, you dont want it rebounding too fast and "topping out" or banging you in the butt.  The manual's recommended clicker settings for rebound damping are the same as for compression damping.

Generally, as you ride faster, over rougher terrain, you may need more rebound damping to keep up with higher speeds, and maybe a bit more compression damping as you hit jumps, or whoops at faster speed.

So to re-cap:

1) Set sag correctly, front and rear.

2) Set tire pressures correctly for dirt, say 20 front and 22 rear?  Tire pressure recommendations deserve their own thread, so I won't belabor the point.

3) Set compression and rebound settings at stock positions, or the settings you arrived at in the garage, from pushing down on the shocks.  Note down what settings you have as you go on to 4 below.

4) Ride the bike, and make one change at a time, so you can feel the difference. You can even experiment by going to extreme setting so you can feel the difference, like maxium compression damping.  Then back it off to get the best ride quality.

5) Reduce compression damping first, to get a plush ride.

6) Adjust rebound damping to get bike settled correctly. 

7) Note down your settings that you like.  As speed increases, or terrain becomes more technical and rough, make further adjustments as you feel needed.  If you get confused from too many changes, go back to your baseline settings you wrote down, and try again.

Thanks to DRXXR at ( for the lion's share of this tutorial.  Also, thanks to James Siddall at the KTM 690 Wiki (

Also, check out your manual!  Beginning at page 64 (2012), the entire process is described (with pictures!).

Lighting & Electrical / Re: 690 Enduro Thermostat Fan Switch Upgrade
« on: January 03, 2017, 08:10:30 pm »
Having read this article, it makes me think KTM is using the higher temp switch to help maintain a 230ish temperature to improve combustion and reduce exhaust emission.

I like the idea of keeping engines cool, but is there a tangible gain for using a lower temp switch for the fan other than driving the temp gauge? It sounds like the fan would be running longer too.

Makes me wonder.

Suspension / Re: Shock Spring Spanner Wrench
« on: January 03, 2017, 03:56:01 pm »
Definitely a good call there @mcrider!

Suspension / Shock Spring Spanner Wrench
« on: January 02, 2017, 06:58:55 pm »
Looking for a strong narrow version that will work with the shock in place for increasing and decreasing preload. Either direction, the tank still looks like it has to be raised.

I have a few here, and the Motion Pro spanner accommodated a removing of preload, but not increasing preload until I darn-near removed the shock. If nothing else, maybe a few minutes at the grinder will help.

Maybe the one in the tool kit if the wrench portions were cut off.

Tires / Re: heidenau k60
« on: January 02, 2017, 01:58:27 pm »
How have the K60's been working for you guys?

With my previous KLX650C, I would burn through tires like the MT21's and a similar Dunlop. Then, I preferred to have a good edge for off-roading. Still my preference. So, I've done some cost comparisons the show multiple purchases.

   Scout K60   MT21
Each    $156     $98
2    $312     $196
3    $468     $294
4    $624     $392

Tires / Re: Stock Tires
« on: January 02, 2017, 01:33:43 pm »
I have this exact same memory of the Teraflex from the early 80's in Phoenix. The Husky guys loved them.

I've used a lot of different brands in my long riding years, never again a Teraflex.  I do not know if they have changed their rubber formula in the past 20 years, but after mounting one on a rice bike in the 80's, I said I'd NEVER own another.  That was a two six pack Saturday.

Tires / Re: Rim Conversion
« on: January 02, 2017, 01:27:17 pm »
Seabeegt, if you are still around maybe you could point us to a place that sells this 3M tape in a single roll. I am finding many places but they want to sell an entire box.

For those looking, there are numerous widths and part numbers for the 3M tape.

Also, there is the Outex kits available for around $125.   :-\

It worked!  ;D
used a couple layers of acrylic silicone on each nipple, bought some sweet screw together valve stems and used some 3m sealing tape. Been rolling on them for a couple days now. No more tubes for me.  :P

Suspension / Re: Lowered seat height
« on: January 02, 2017, 12:40:37 pm »
Thanks @mcrider. I'll check them out.

Since I've posted about a desire for lighter fork springs, it seems @trailpioneer did is getting traction with me.  Pros and cons to either direction.

Suspension / Re: Lowered seat height
« on: January 02, 2017, 07:30:39 am »
Some good information here for sure. Searching for optional fork springs, I cannot find any. There is one site but their spring availability stopped at something like the 2009 model. I would like to find a set that is a bit softer. Anyone know of a source?

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