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Messages - coarsegoldkid

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This ride is presented by the Steward of the Sierra National Forest.  2017 is the 8th year for the event.  Go to for details.  This event is how the Stewards fund their trail work in the Sierra National Forest.  You'll certainly enjoy the self-guided ride on hard-way or easy-way routes.  I'll be there with my 690.  Come join in.  If you have questions you can message me or post in this thread.

Sweet Mods and Accessories / Re: Foot Pegs
« on: April 01, 2017, 10:10:38 am »
I installed the CJ Designs footpeg extenders.  It takes a bit of time to get it done.  My procedure may be different than yours.  Removing the stock pegs is simple.  When I tried to mark the exact spot to drill I found that the marks were not visible.  So I spray painted a bit in the areas for the front/rear holes.  When dry I marked them without issue laying them flat down so the cleats of peg were level with cleats of extenders.  Drilling was a multi step process.  A pilot then final hole for the holes.  A bit of back and forth to make sure all was lined up carefully.  For the reinstall on the bike you will find that the spring is stout enough to balance a garage door.  I required a long nose vice grip pliers to squeeze the ends of the spring to partially insert into position then with a screw driver from the bottom into the spring and the pin positioned at the top the spring could be let go.  It still takes a bit of messing with but it was the only way I could do it.  I will try the pegs today.

What Broke? / Re: OEM seat **** !!
« on: January 25, 2017, 11:36:21 am »
The OEM seat is a piece of junk.  On mine the holes for the pads were broken.  OEM pan is made out of a brittle material it's not even suitable for stapling on a new cover/pad.  The Seat Concepts pan is far better and the seat comfort is better too.

What Broke? / Re: TAT in August - What's gonna break?
« on: January 25, 2017, 11:29:23 am »
Probably nothing will break.  Apply thread locker "medium strength" to every fastener you can get to and use a torque wrench when reinstalling.  If you feel like it lube the suspension linkage where you can.  Should be a great trip.  On the IBCDR last year 690s were the bike of choice as far as I could tell.  Lots of them.

What Broke? / Re: oil leak on new bike left side
« on: January 25, 2017, 11:22:47 am »
My guess on the source of the oil is a pinched o-ring or poor seal for the sensor to shift drum interface.  As for noise there are a couple of areas that I have found make them sound like farm equipment.  My 690 has 16,000 miles on it.  First is the rocker arms. They were making lots of noise I first thought were wide valve clearances.  Although that really didn't make sense to me.  I checked and found the problem. I've replace both intake and exhaust because the intake rocker bearing was so worn out. I could not even believe it was still running as strong as it did.  The second sourc is the crankshaft main bearing.  I'm replacing mine now.  The play wasn't sever but a definite rattle when I took the cylinder off and gave the small end of the rod a wiggle side to side and twisting side to side.  The clearance between the big end and the crank was in spec but very loose feeling.  Once chucked up in the lathe I could really make it noisy by grabbing the small end to turn the crank.  Anyway I bought a new crank and it sure is tighter and smoother.  The engine isn't back together yet.  I've heard that if a KTM engine isn't noisy then it must be broken though.  I'm hoping the engine rebuild was not a waste of time and money.  There is also another area of potential noise some 690's have exhibited and that is the balance shaft bearing surface.  I didn't have that issue.

Hello friends, the Steward's Of The Sierra National Forest are having their annual fundraising BBQ and optional Dual Sport Ride July 18 and 19 of 2015. The event is held at the Elks Lodge in Oakhurst, California. Their optional Dual Sport ride has always been a winner. Hard and easy splits, so there is something for everyone. The Steward's work hard all year to make the forest accessible to the OHV community. There is no other group looking out for your interests in the Sierra National Forest. Your contribution is sorely needed of cover the associated costs. Follow this link to read more and sign up.

Lighting & Electrical / Re: Squadron XL Light
« on: August 10, 2014, 11:35:44 am »
Also interested!
Email sent to BD.  I'll report back with their reply as to fit on 2012+ machines.
The good news is BD is working on it.

From BD:  We unfortunately do not offer a a Squadron that will fit on your bike. We are trying to produce a Squadorn that will work on that model. The main issue is clearing the Speedometer unit, thanks – Christian

Over on ADVRider when I asked the same question about lighting options a fellow, not too far from me actually, mounted a Squadron XL using a 2012 500EXC mask and creative bracket making.

Lighting & Electrical / How do you light up the night?
« on: August 09, 2014, 11:01:34 pm »
I want more light for night riding in the woods.  The cockpit is already crowded for handlebar mounting.  What did you use for lights?  How did you mount them?  How did you electrify them?

For Sale / Wanted / F/S Kouba Link 1" lower
« on: August 05, 2014, 07:09:38 pm »
100 dollars shipped within Continental US.  PM if interested.

Tires / Tusk and Motion Pro valve stem pullers
« on: July 31, 2014, 12:10:46 pm »
Rusty this might belong in a tool category that I didn't locate.
A valve stem puller is designed to be a dual purpose tool or so I thought.  My departed Motion Pro tool worked fine for me for a short while.  It removes the core and pulls the valve stem through the rim.  The Tusk Valve Stem Puller is a single purpose tool.  The end that is used to remove the core, at least on the one that I bought, is not wide or deep enough to remove the core. Once the core is removed it will screw into the valve stem however.  Make sure you include a proper core removing tool in your kit just incase you need to mess with a tube.  I now have one in the form of a valve cap.
Bye the way the Motion Pro tool had a longer cable than the Tusk which is a good thing.  The downside was it was designed as a two piece head and always unscrewed itself due to vibration causing that small piece to get lost in the tool bag.  Also the cable on the Motion Pro frayed, painfully drew blood, and was thrown away.  Why is it so difficult to manufacture a simple tool perform the intended task and last for more than a few months?

Sweet Mods and Accessories / Re: Sidestand Fix/Mod
« on: June 07, 2014, 09:32:10 am »
I took about 2 inches off of mine.  One inch might just do it for those lucky enough to have  32+ inseams.  Mine is about 2 inches since I lowered the bike 1 inch.  A tab to hook the boot on would be great though as I find the stand a bit close to the chassis when deployed and hard to get purchase with my boots.

Sweet Mods and Accessories / Re: Cool turn signals
« on: May 26, 2014, 12:59:42 pm »
patented click-release system gets you going in seconds

Sweet Mods and Accessories / Re: Sidestand Fix/Mod
« on: May 26, 2014, 12:50:10 pm »
I agree that it's too long especially if you get the suspension dialed in with proper springs as I did.  I think and friend and I cut off about 2 inches and welded on a slightly larger diameter foot.  When the bike is unladen it's nearly as vertical as stock.  However when I sit on the bike the suspension compresses about 70mm.  On flat hard surfaces it's easy to lift up with boot by leaning right a bit.  On soft or uneven surfaces it's still sometimes difficult to kick up.  A couple of times I've had to get off the bike, kick it up, put left foot on the peg and motor away while swinging my right leg over the seat.  In my next life I'm going to lobby for tall parents. ;D

Lighting & Electrical / Re: Sicass racing tail LED's
« on: May 10, 2014, 11:01:58 am »
The answer to my own question is yes the instrument blinker lamp is supposed to blink with the turn signals.  Mine does not.  So what resistor value and where does it or they go on the bike?

690 Discussion / Re: First Service Cost
« on: May 07, 2014, 11:22:46 pm »
I have no idea how much a first service costs.  Nor do I intend to find out what subsequent services cost either.  Short of a tranny or bottom end rebuild I'll so my own work thank you.
Do your own work as much as you can because if you are on the trail and something goes sideways you'll know better how to repair it.  Use your tool kit to make sure you have the tools necessary to work on the bike even at home.  The other day when I removed the spark plug for service I discovered that the spark plug tool is soft metal.  Use a 6 point closed end wrench or socket on that bugger.  After that you may want to carry a closed end wrench. One other thing is get a couple of torque wrenches.  One to tighten the vast number of 6 and 8mm bolts and one to do the axle bolts and other torque specs the smaller can't handle.   There's vibration on a large single.  When the manual says to use a 242 thread locker use the thread locker.  That way stuff won't fall off on the trail or highways.

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