Author Topic: 690 Enduro EFI -- Idiot's Guide link (part I)  (Read 2810 times)

Rusty Shovel

  • Aimless Ne'er Do Well
  • Administrator
  • Grizzled Adventurer
  • *****
  • Posts: 553
  • Karma: +8/-1
  • Houston, TX
  • Location: Katy, TX
    • View Profile
690 Enduro EFI -- Idiot's Guide link (part I)
« on: February 13, 2014, 08:50:21 am »

Thanks Dave, for the link.  The original poster, El Ponkin at ADVrider, seems to have done his homework!  For convenience's sake, I've included the text of his post here.  If you want to thanks El Ponkin for donating his time to benefit fellow 690 Enduro owners, you can do so over at ADVrider (


My attempt here is to produce an idiot’s guide basically written by an idiot.
I will placemat the first 10 posts in this thread so that I can put “Chapters” up as I finish them and keep all the facts on the first page of the thread. I have read numerous forums and threads to gather this info and my attempt here is to collate the information into one place in a logical sequence to save you the effort of searching, like I had too. I am not claiming to be an expert I am just acting as a conduit to gather the knowledge of multiple forums and posts into one place.

Some information will be incomplete and some may be incorrect, the idea is I post it up and people can PM me corrections or additional information so it builds into a concise and accurate guide.

If you have questions you can post them up, but make sure the answer is NOT already covered in the guide first and then the collective can come up with the answer and I can add it to the guide.


Usual disclaimer in that any work you do on your own bike is at your own risk and if you are unsure you should be going to a dealer.
If your bike is in warranty anything you do here will void your warranty.
This guide is to help those who are mechanically efficient and computer literate who just want the facts in one place, the guide will not make you an engineer overnight. Don’t mess with your bike unless you are completely confident you know what you are doing and have fully researched the subject.


These are the major sources for the information I have produced.!&

This final one is a site that has training material on the common OBDII Electronic Fuel Management Systems.
Select Technical Articles from the LH Menu and then the relevant courses start from 31.


How to Tune And Modify Motorcycle Engine Management Systems – Tracy Martin


Chapter 1

The basics about KTM 690 EFI

KTM 690 models all have the same Keihin EFI system. This EFI system is different in a number of ways than on most - if not all - other bikes. It uses a 46mm single valve throttle body with two ECUs. One ECU controls the fuelling & ignition and the other controls the throttle valve through semi ride-by-wire. The ECUs interact with each other communicating over a CAN-BUS connection. The two cables from the throttle grip hook up to the throttle valve but the ECU has the ability to 'take over' if needed. Closing the throttle valve is 'hard wired' for safety reasons. Under normal conditions the throttle valve will follow the commands from the rider 1:1 but if the throttle commands get outside the working parameters of the engine, the ECU will take over controlling the throttle valve in a way that the engine will keep performing to its optimum. For instance; whacking the throttle wide open in a split second at 2500 RPM in 5th gear will normally stall the engine. This is when the throttle ECU takes over and opens the throttle as quickly as the engine will allow without stalling, a neat and sophisticated system that works really well. The fact that you never feel the ECU taking over when riding a 690 kind of shows how good it works.

Basic Mapping

Because of the setup with two ECUs the 'mapping' or 'fuel map' for a 690 also consists of two parts/files. A map (file) for the fuelling: ....FIMap.hex and a file for the throttle: ....EPMap.hex. This has led to problems and confusion with both dealers and owners. The two parts of a fuel map belong together and are NOT interchangeable with other fuel maps. When updating or changing the fuel map it is critical that both files are downloaded to the bikes' ECUs.

· EPT map: Determines the amount of throttle body opening relative to handlebar throttle input. Adjustment of this fly-by-wire throttle permits dramatic changes in response of the engine to throttle input. This system is what causes a lot of the twitchiness in the throttle.
· FI map: Determines the amount of fuel delivered depending on engine load, RPM and throttle body input. This map may utilize the oxygen sensor or the SAI (secondary air intake) but these can be selected OFF.

Later we will use a program called TuneECU to access these maps, the program allows us to access certain data from these maps but we do not see all of the functions. You will see that the EPT map takes longer to read than the FI map even though it appears to do less in the way of mapping tables and that is because there are other built in functions that TuneECU will not let us access. The modern engine management systems have monitoring circuits to make sure certain parameters are not exceeded and the result can be a “fuel-cut” signal being sent from the ECU, unfortunately there is very little information available about the effects of this and what parameters are monitored.

The naming convention for map files indicates the year grouping that the map is applicable to, in this example the 11 indicates applicable to 2011 bikes only:

· KM765EU11B0231FIMap.hex

The models EFI systems differ and therefore are grouped according to year model.

A. 2008-2010 – map code 08
B. 2011 – map code 11
C. 2012-2013 – map code 12

Mapsets available for different set ups.

There are various KTM Map sets (EPT / FI) available for each of the different year groups as follows:

· Standard – Standard air filter and catalytic converter exhaust.
· Akrapovic – applicable to most performance pipes – runs lean at lower RPMs runs rich up higher.
· EVO1 - applicable to most performance pipes with the addition of the opened up airbox lid. The best map from KTM and the best bike set up.
· EVO2 - applicable to most performance pipes plus the opened up airbox lid plus performance camshaft.
Each mapset actually contains submaps that look like excel spreadsheets that give different values for each combination of RPM,Throttle setting, pressure etc etc. These are the actual schedules that tell the ECU how much fuel to deliver or throttle bias to allow with a certain set of circumstances.

FI Map Submaps:

· F submap is the fuel mapping based on throttle position – it shows injection pulse width according to throttle plate opening@ given rpm
· F Trim Adjustment for the fuel table F (in%)
· L submap is the fuel mapping based manifold pressure – injection pulse width according to manifold absolute pressure (MAP) @ given rpm
· I table is the ignition mapping
· I Trim Correction tables for Ignition advance (I) in degrees.
· F-L switch submap sets the threshold where the vacuum mapping goes over into the throttle mapping.

EP Submaps

· Throttle submap is the throttle by wire map, shows percentage throttle for each RPM thus affecting the sensitivity of the throttle, 100% is basically 1 to 1 ratio.

There is a different F,L,I and Throttle submap for each number on the map select switch dial under your seat (0,1,2,3) If you are in position 2 on the dial then you will be using L1, F1, I1, and Throttle "performance" submaps.

Obviously KTM have set these tables up to accommodate the different set ups of exhaust and air filter, but remember they have to meet stringent emission regulations and hence the tables all have calculations based on emission regs and not necessarily the optimum settings, later you will see how we can customise these individual submaps to fine tune for optimum performance.

Map Select Switch under the seat

The Map select switch under the seat has 10 positions these relate to the following settings:

0 – Poor fuel
1 – Soft
2 – Performance
3 – Standard (4-9 is the same)

As discussed above these settings will change which submaps the ECU is using to control the engine.
With some of the maps all of the "L" maps are the same, all of the "F" maps are the same and all of the "I" maps are the same (except for "I low octane fuel"). So in these cases, the only change to feel or performance that this switch does is to change the EP map which only affects the throttle sensitivity.


Chapter 2

Diagnosing EFI

Understand that these bikes have issues with fuel quality and operation of the fuel pump.
The rear filler design and the minute fuel injector nozzle mean that crap can get in and stop the bike. In normal use the pump attracts a grey residue from the fuel tank material that will eventually block filters. Also the plumbing of the pump can get kinked lines and electrical connectors can work loose. So make sure that you eradicate all pump and injector issues before trying to diagnose an EFI fault.

EFI systems are electrically controlled and driven, fault monitoring circuits therefore can only detect electrical faults and monitor for extremes i.e. open circuit or short circuit. If a sensor is misreading it will not be detected as a fault until its parameters go outside of set limits. If any sensors go outside limits you will get a flashing FI light and the KTM operators manual will be able to interpret the “blink” code which is kind of like “morse” code from the FI light blinking so many long and short blinks.

If you have a mechanical fault, a sensor reading incorrectly or an incorrectly adjusted sensor there will be no warning. If you have a combination of a couple of faults it can get very hard to diagnose, particularly if you are dealership mechanic on a tight timeframe servicing a multitude of weaponry you simply won’t have the time to get fully up to speed on one particular model. My thoughts are that you as the owner need to become an expert.

As KTM use a specific KTM diagnostics box to read and adjust the ECUs the price is inhibitive for the general home mechanic however some bright spark came up with a program called TuneECU.

ECU Fault Monitoring

The ECU monitors many items for electrical faults and is looking for them to be in a set range, if outside these values the ECU will give a fault. Several sensors are purely there to fine tune emissions to get the bike to pass the stringent European legislation and in most cases these systems are what upsets the ride- ability of the bike and they can be disabled without any issues.
As there are so many sensors obviously the more you can disable then the less likely you will get a fault. KTM terminology is not consistent through their manuals so some names may vary depending on what manual you are looking at.

· Crankshaft Position Sensor – Determines engine speed and Top Dead Centre position.
· Throttle Position Sensor (Circuit A) – referred to as THAD in the KTM Manual, it is on the LH Side of throttle body and senses the throttle body butterfly valve position.
· Accelerator Position Sensor – referred to as APAD in the KTM Manual, RH Side of throttle body and senses the cable input from the throttle.
· Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor – On top of the throttle body. The engine ECU uses barometric pressure to get ideal air/fuel mixture, thinner air = less fuel. 1013 hPa at sea level and 15 degrees Celsius air temperature is normal pressure. Barometric air pressure will vary from 960 to 1050 hPa. 988 hPa is normal with engine off, when you start the engine and rev it, more suction = less pressure.
· Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor – changes fuel schedule during cold starting. Just below spark plug.
· Intake Air Temperature Sensor – Located inside the airbox and can be damaged by oil contamination. NTC thermistor should be 100k at 25 degrees C.
· Ambient Air Pressure Sensor – Located under the instrument cluster behind the headlight, the sensing tube must be pointing down.
· Rollover Sensor – Like a crash switch, just in behind the rear brake reservoir.
· Lambda Sensor – Senses O2 in the exhaust to trim the fuel mixture a little, turned off with Performance Mapping. Located in the exhaust just below the radiator. Cold engine uses open loop and it switches to closed loop as soon as the lambda sensors reach their operating temperature, This might have something to do with the issue that few people have reported (the bike stalls after 10 s).ECU will use open loop operation in warm engine also whenever there is enough engine load (acceleration). The O2 sensor is only a narrow band sensor and therefore hasn’t got much authority over fuel flow, it can only make slight adjustments , more for emission control.
· System Voltage – EFI systems are sensitive to volts and need a minimum voltage to work.
· Sidestand switch – Can be removed and resistor put in its place.
· Ignition Coil
· Fuel Pump Controller
· Lambda Sensor Heater – Heater in the O2 sensor.
· Fuel Evaporation Valve – USA Models only
· Secondary Air Valve – Commonly called SAI, turned off with Performance Mapping. LH Side mounted by the side of the airbox up near the radiator.
· EPT Motor Drive Relay Permission
· Motor Drive – this electrical motor drives the throttle body butterfly valve.
· Motor Drive Hall Sensor
· Motor Drive Voltage.
· CAN Bus Communication – electronic communication between system components.
· Gear position sensor

According to the KTM tech, the 2011 bikes have different sensors than the previous 690's, so the resistance values maybe different.

Don’ts with EFI

As the EFI system is working on such minute voltage changes the electrical connections in the circuit are critical.
· Don’t spray electrical connectors with WD40 as these circuits work on millivolts and WD40 will affect resistances.
· Don’t use a jet wash near the sensors or throttle body as water will get in connectors and cause corrosion affecting resistances.


Chapter 3


TuneECU is a free program that can be used instead of the KTM Diagnostic tool. Please donate to the users if you find the program useful to help them keep the project going.
The program will allow you to access diagnostics, read sensor values, set up sensors, read / reset fault codes and read / change mapping.
EFI systems all follow a set format called OBDII so a standard cable is used just with an adapter lead to the KTM connector under the seat.
It is highly important to buy a good quality cable from a reputable distributor as many have had problems with cheap ebay alternates. I bought mine from here:
Use extra care when disconnecting the cable from your bike, by that I mean pull on the right part of the plug housing and not the cable/harness so as not to encourage it coming apart.

So go to this website and read all about it and download and read the user guide to fully understand how it works.

To set the system up on your laptop you will need to download the following:

· The program
· The drivers for the cable (these are specific to your computer operating system – Mine is Windows 7 with 64 bit – see note below ref determining whether 32 or 64 bit).
· The maps

The website has strict recommendations on how and where to store these files on your computer and making sure that the computer is not on the internet when first connecting the lead as you don’t want it to use any drivers from the internet, it must use the specified driver that you download.

Once up to speed with TuneECU you will be able to read and save current maps and flash new ones. You will also be able to access the diagnostics page and read real time sensor values and set up your Throttle Position Sensor.

Installing Drivers

Installing the cable drivers is probably the most difficult part of the whole process as computers now automate this process and it can be hard to stop that automatic process to insist on installing your own specific drivers.
These installation guides can help to overcome any issues depending on your operating system:

How to determine whether your Windows 7 is 32 Bit or 64 Bit.

Click the Start button, right-click Computer, and then click Properties.
If "64-bit Operating System" is listed next to System type, you’re running the 64-bit version of Windows 7.
If "32-bit Operating System" is listed next to System type, you’re running the 32-bit version of Windows 7.
Download the corresponding Driver for your cable from here:

Now watch the video

How to see what Map is loaded on your bike

When you are connected with the bike in tune ECU, in Map Edit, you will see ECU info in the top left corner, ECU serial, ECU map, checksum. You can toggle between the two ECUs to each of the two map names by clicking on the map name.


When you are in the Map Edit, you press ECU - then Read Map - and here you can choose to read FI or EP map and the map code stands there to, just click cancel if you don’t want to read them to the computer.

Working with Maps on the bike

When you are connected with the bike in tune ECU you must understand that the display panel will tell you what map is loaded on the bike and you can “read” and “save” that map and “download” a new map but you cannot make “live” changes to the currently installed map.
To explain it another way if you wanted to customise the current maps that are on the bike you would have to “read” them to display them in Tune ECU then make the changes in TuneECU before “downloading” them back to the bike. So you can see you only need to connect to the bike to “read”, “save” or “download”. All work to be done to change or customise mapping can be done in TuneECU whilst disconnected from the bike.
« Last Edit: February 13, 2014, 09:33:40 am by Rusty Shovel »
2014 KTM 690 Enduro R

Share on Facebook Share on Twitter Share on Google+

Rusty Shovel

  • Aimless Ne'er Do Well
  • Administrator
  • Grizzled Adventurer
  • *****
  • Posts: 553
  • Karma: +8/-1
  • Houston, TX
  • Location: Katy, TX
    • View Profile
690 Enduro EFI -- Idiot's Guide link (part II)
« Reply #1 on: February 13, 2014, 09:07:55 am »
Chapter 4



Make sure that you have a decent charge in your battery or hook it up to a tender/charger. Reading maps from your bike takes about 45min and re-writing, re-mapping, (downloading, flashing) takes just about few minutes.

If the power drops out or computer trips up during this process the ECU will freeze, if this happens you will need to carefully read the TuneECU guide to recover the ECU. This is the risky side of this operation so make sure you have back up for your bike battery and that your laptop isn’t going to run out half way through either.

Don’t have any other EFI Programs running on your computer whilst connected to the bike as some can cause damage. Only use the TuneECU program whilst connected.


1. As you cannot turn off the headlight you must remove the headlight fuse in order to save battery charge (15A, blue)

2. Locate the ECU test connection and carefully remove the blanking plug. Attach the cable to your bike and turn the ignition ON. (You can connect the cables wrong, check out the pins and make sure you orientate the plug correctly before pushing it in)

3. Start up the TuneECU software.

Three views are possible and can be selected in the top right-hand-corner.

Maps - allows view and editing of maps
Diagnostics - Allow you to see a wide variety of parameters the ECU is monitoring such as barometric pressure, oil temp, ambient temp, engine load, throttle voltage.
Tests - Allows you to perform several tests on the bike via the ECU

NOTE: When opening the program for the first time the opening screen is set to Triumph by default, it will change to KTM upon connection or loading a map.

NOTE: As a default, it should connect to your bike. If it doesn't, select the ECU menu and click connect. You will see in the “Options” menu a selection for “Auto Connect” and you can select this if you like, if working in TuneECU whilst disconnected from the bike it is best to uncheck this to stop the annoying pop up telling you it can’t connect.

Within 30 seconds, a little rectangle will blink in the lower right-hand-corner of the application. Initially it will be red when sensing the connection and turn to green once a connection is established.

4. After a while TuneECU has read the sensor readings.

5. Move to the "Download" page. Reading your currently installed map and saving it is recommended as a fail-safe feature at least if your recent map is not available at Tune ECU site. Just make a backup.

The Green arrow below shows the ECU info and this will indicate what map is currently loaded in the bike, you can click on the Map number and it will toggle between the EP map number and the FI map number.

NOTE: TuneECU does not display the Maps currently loaded on the bike in the tables, the table displayed is the last map that you chose to “open” or “read” it is not looking “live” at the map that is on the bike. You can see the Red arrow shows the computer address of the map that is currently being displayed.

To display the map currently installed in the bike you must first “Read” the map. To do this from the ECU menu select Read.

6. TuneECU software will ask which map you want to Read. Select the first map and select Read. TuneECU will then commence reading the map and copying it to the tables. A green progress bar will appear at the bottom of the tables which will indicate the percentage read.

NOTE: The FI map takes about 10 mins but the EP map takes about 30 mins.


7. After the Map has finished being read you must then save the map to your laptop so you keep a copy of what was originally installed in case you have a problem. Select the File Menu and click on Save Map File.

8. Create a folder for the existing maps and save to that folder.

9. Now repeat the “read and save” process for the EP Map.

10. Now the old maps are secured it is time to install new ones.
Select File Menu and click on Open Map File.

11. Open the map that you're going to install starting with the EP Map. In this case we are installing the EVO1 maps for a 2011 bike.

12. Once you have opened your new map it will be displayed in the tables. To Install the map on the bike select the ECU menu and click on Download. A warning will pop up explaining the dangers of loading an incorrect map, this is a standard warning that will always show and acts as a timely reminder to ensure you have selected the correct map. Click Ok and the download to the bike will commence. It only takes a couple of minutes and again you will see the progress bar as this happens.

NOTE: The Red circle in the screenshot shows the path to the map file which is going to be downloaded.

13. After the EP map install you must do a Throttle Calibration. The bike remains hooked up through this process so you can monitor the throttle calibration with TuneECU. Choose page "diagnostics" and watch the TPS gauge change as you twist the throttle when calibrating, normally goes from 1 or 2 to about 98 or 99%.
Carry out as follows:
Turn the ignition off for 10 secs
Turn ignition back on and Twist the throttle grip slowly to full open and then slowly to full close and then turn the ignition back off.
Turn the ignition back on and make sure TuneECU reconnects automatically and you get a green bar again in the bottom RH corner.

14. Repeat items 12 and 13 to install the FI map with the following addition:
Once you have opened the FI map you need to make sure you have the right boxes ticked on or off under the “Devices” heading. If you have SAS plugged, you should uncheck the SAI box. If you have the O2 lambda sensor removed you should uncheck the O2 box. If they are still fitted you can decide whether to just electrically disable them or not just by unchecking each box, I would recommend they be disabled for smoother running if you do not have the standard exhaust still fitted.

NOTE: as long as these checkboxes are unchecked i.e. disabled the sensors can be removed WITHOUT having to fit a slave resistor and there will be no FI warnings and map loading will work fine with them not fitted.

Now download the FI map to the bike as we did before for the EP map.

NOTE: The Red circle in the screenshot below shows the path to the map file which is going to be downloaded.

15. After the FI map is installed you must do the 15 min “adaptation” run as follows:

NOTE: The engine must be stone cold and throughout the process do not touch the throttle. Leave the bike connected to the laptop but make sure the cabling is away from the exhaust heat.
Start the engine and let it run for 15 min.
After 15 mins Kill the engine with the ignition key.

You can monitor the 15 min adaptation run with TuneECU. Choose page "diagnostics" and watch the IAT and Coolant Temp rise when idling and the fan kicking in and out to control water temp.

16. Once complete and with the ignition off, shutdown the TuneECU program and disconnect the cable.
Remember to reinstall the blanking cap on the ECU connector and then restow it out of harms way. Refit the headlight fuse and refit the seat. Job done.

2014 KTM 690 Enduro R

Rusty Shovel

  • Aimless Ne'er Do Well
  • Administrator
  • Grizzled Adventurer
  • *****
  • Posts: 553
  • Karma: +8/-1
  • Houston, TX
  • Location: Katy, TX
    • View Profile
690 Enduro EFI -- Idiot's Guide link (part III)
« Reply #2 on: February 13, 2014, 09:14:04 am »
Chapter 5

Tune ECU Experimentation

For a more in-depth look into customising maps check out this link


When customising maps you can seriously damage your engine. It is best to have the mapping customised by an expert with the bike on a dyno.

Customising Maps

The F map is usable at high engine load when MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) is close to atmosphere or there is just a little under pressure.

The L map is usable at low engine load, when there is much under pressure.

When you are cruising at suburban speeds the throttle plate is almost completely shut. The pressure in the manifold is very low. L-map starts from 190 hPa, which is approx. 0,19 * atmospheric pressure. KTM 690 fuel pressure is 3,5 bar or 3500 hPa. The amount of fuel being delivered to the manifold is defined by 2 things; pulse width (injector open) + pressure difference. Injecting the same, let's say 8000 µs, at 0,2 bar MAP compared to 0,9 bar MAP makes 19% difference in the amount of fuel injected. That makes a lot in terms of Air Fuel Ratio (AFR). Therefore, you need to match the pulse width to manifold (under) pressure.

The F-L switch map controls the point at which fuel scheduling goes from the L map to the F Map. The F-L map can be tweaked to read 10,10,0,0,0,0,0 and this means that the bike's ECU uses almost all the time the F map. 10 means 10% throttle as a limit to change using F map. At higher revs (1800 and up) the limit is 0%. So the bike is using the F map practically all the time.

The L map is more accurate at low engine load. That's where the jerky ride and stalling gremlin lives. L map has also the ability to adapt to changed airflow conditions like clogged air filter or changing atmospheric pressure (high elevation, barometric low).

In 690cc KTM 690 bikes (2012-) there is no need to tweak the F-L switch map.

The F-maps can be edited in two different ways:

· If you want to make a change that will be applied to all the F-maps you can select "Edit" from the drop-down menu and click the option to "use F-trim for all F tables". Then you can select the F-trim icon in the left hand column and then change all the "0s" to "4s". Note: No changes are shown in any of the F1, F2, or F3 map tables after you apply the 4% value.

· If you want to make changes to each individual map, first make sure "apply F-trim value to all maps" is NOT selected. Then you select a map you want to edit and highlight all the cells. Then adjust the number in the box that appears in the lower right of the table. Hit enter and the map values in the table will update. Select the next F-map and repeat.

The L-maps are changed the same way you change the F-maps individually. You select a map and then highlight all the cells and adjust the number in the box that appears in the lower right of the table. Hit enter and the map values in the table will update. Select the next L-map and repeat.

Always work on a renamed copy of the file and don't forget to save it.

Check out this link to the full process with pics:

When you really get into it then read this forum and join the elite:


Chapter 6

KTM 690 - Stalling and throttle issues

Sourced from:

A lot of 690 owners complain about stalling and/or a jerky throttle response. While there are differences between individual bikes (and their owners...), there seems to be no pattern in models or production years. Some bikes suffer more from stalling and throttle glitches than others. Most don't at all or only occasionally. But these niggles are usually easy to solve!

The fact that KTM 690s are a bit more sensitive to stalling and/or throttle issues is down to two important factors; performance and emission & noise regs. The 690 is one of the strongest 4-stroke singles on the market today, this means a relatively high state of tune, big valves, big ports, big throttle body, high compression, low rotating mass etc. But the 690 also has to meet the ever tougher regulations for emissions and noise. Power & performance do not go hand-in-hand with noise & emissions regs very well, especially not with a big single. The Lambda sensor controlled EFI keeps the engine on a super-lean mixture, catalytic converter(s), Secondary Air System, throttle restriction in 2nd & 3rd gear are all there to make it pass the murdering emission & noise regs. They do not help the engine... they do exactly the opposite. The high performance concept & design of the 690s combined with all the environmental measures makes them more sensitive to the right setup and adjustments.

But we all want that performance so stop moaning and deal with it properly. 95% of the stalling and throttle issues are easily solved and are usually only down to proper service and dealer knowledge.

These are the steps to follow to kill throttle gremlins:

1.Throttle calibration (All)
2.Idle reset procedure (All)
3.Throttle sensor check/adjustment (Values change depending on year model)
4.Idle CO check/adjustment

1. Throttle calibration

The simplest one. This re-calibrates the start & stop position of the throttle grip. Turn the ignition on but don't start. Wait for the tacho needle to return to zero. Then turn the throttle grip gradually from close to open and back from open to closed. Don't let it snap shut. Turn the ignition off, done.

2. Idle reset procedure

The 'famous' 15 minute idle reset procedure. This resets the adaptive base values of the ECU. It won't transform the bike but it can make a worthwhile improvement. It is very important that the engine is stone cold. One or two hours after riding is not enough! Do this after the bike has been off for a full night or day. Start the engine and let it idle for 15 minutes without touching anything. After 15 minutes, switch the engine off with the ignition key. Done. During this procedure you won't see or hear anything happening besides the idling and (probably) the fan. Don't worry, the reset is done. Besides after certain maintenance or parts replacement, you could consider doing it twice a year with the turning of the seasons. A reset for the colder autumn & winter period and one time for warmer conditions during spring & summer. This is not mandatory or needed and don't expect miracles.

3. Throttle sensor check/adjustment

This requires a KTM diagnostics tool hooked up to the bike or use TuneECU as described before. There are two throttle sensors on the throttle body (where the carb used to be...). On the left hand side is the sensor controlled by the ECU. This one is used when the ECU takes over the control of the throttle valve from the rider (ride by wire with data from the throttle map). On the right hand side is the sensor connected to the throttle cables coming from the throttle grip. This is the one that makes you think you're in control. :-) Both sensors interact with each other and each has its own base adjustment. It's not difficult to understand that these are important. The abbreviations in the maintenance & repair manual for these base adjustments are 'THAD' and 'APAD'. The procedure is pretty straightforward but precise. It shouldn't take longer than 20 minutes or so. After adjustment it makes sense to do a “Throttle Calibration” as per step 1 above. On the left side is the TPS "THAD" basic setting is 0.50 - 0.54v this is the throttle position for the ECU throttle butterfly closed with your finger. On the right side is the TPS "APAD" basic setting is 0.70 - 0.74v this is the throttle grip position sensor These settings are from the 2008-2010 manuals (2011 is different and I haven’t found the values yet). Be aware there is a plastic tag on the TPS driving the butterfly so be careful not to break it off by being to rough.

4. Idle & Load CO check/adjustment

This requires a KTM diagnostics tool hooked up to the bike or use TuneECU as described later. There is some control over the idle & load mixture through adjustment of the CO targets from the ECU. This is within a limited bandwith but enough to iron out idle or fueling glitches. Adjustments are made by up & down mouse-clicks with real time bar graphs on the screen that show what happens. Very easy. Only small changes at a time should be made. The effect of changes to the idle CO take a while to show in the graphs. The target for load CO (riding) is usually set at 1.000. This is Lamda 1 and corresponds to an air/fuel mixture of 1:14.7. Adjustment of this value goes in small steps of 0.008 but has a clear effect on the mixture throughout the rev range. Only one or two steps is enough. Not more because the mixture is likely to become too rich or lean. So if the mixture needs to be a little richer (probably) this would be 1.008 or 1.016. Ideally this should be done on a dyno but minor adjustments like this can be done by 'set & ride' too.

After these 4 steps, 99% of all idle and throttle glitches will be solved. Most already after steps 1 to 3. If not, something else is really wrong or malfunctioning but this is rarely the case. If so, there is a big chance the cause will show up on the diagnostics page of TuneECU in the error message log.

Idle Figures

2200 idle rpm when cold is normal, 1650 when hot is normal idle rpm.

2014 KTM 690 Enduro R

Rusty Shovel

  • Aimless Ne'er Do Well
  • Administrator
  • Grizzled Adventurer
  • *****
  • Posts: 553
  • Karma: +8/-1
  • Houston, TX
  • Location: Katy, TX
    • View Profile
690 Enduro EFI -- Idiot's Guide link (part IV)
« Reply #3 on: February 13, 2014, 09:22:19 am »
Chapter 7

Setting up the Throttle sensor.

Sourced from:

KTM 690 fix stalling problem using TuneECU

I spent a week trying to get bike not to stall after loading any kind of map with after market slip-on exhaust. This is a guide on how to do it yourself in much less time.


1. Bike stalls after start up when cold. You need to fire it up every 10 or 30 sec. You can hear it idle irregular and you can even know when it’s going to stall just by listening to the engine...

2. Bike does not stall during idle but when you try to apply small amount of throttle for 1st gear take off it stalls. During idle try to open throttle by very small amounts Very slowly and you can hear engine running irregular or even stall.

Cause of the problem is in the two throttle sensors on each side of keihin throttle body. For the ECU to know how much throttle is opened, its sensors need to be reading the same voltage. If sensors are not aligned the ECU will think it has throttle opening of 3% while actual opening would be 5% or more, it can also go the other way around. Also if sensors are not aligned the ECU will not pickup small throttle openings that you apply around idle.

To fix this you need to use the TuneECU program, the voltage figures particular to your year model and some tools. To be able to unscrew throttle sensors you will need a torx t20 bit that has a hole in middle.

The procedure on how to adjust these 2 sensors can also be found in the KTM Repair manual from pages 165-169. I also advise to read it twice. In manual this procedure is explained using the KTM diagnostic tool. You don’t need the tool to adjust anything you just need it to read voltages so therefore you can use TuneECU instead as it will read and show the voltages.

Try to read all of the TuneECU guides to get familiar on how to use this software before u start to adjust sensors.

2008-2010 Year Models Procedure:

Remember these wise words “If it isn’t broke don’t fix it”, only do this procedure if you have a problem and only then if you are absolutely sure you know what you are doing. I believe KTM change the throttle body as a complete assembly so if you bugger it up it will be expensive.

Remember to disconnect the stepper motor before pushing with finger.

These values are for 2008-2010 Models ONLY I do not have the figures or procedure for 2011 onwards yet.

Do this while engine is as cold as possible. Always consult manual first before doing any of this. I am not explaining how to turn every bolt around and I am using nuts and connector names and numbers as in the KTM repair manual.

1. Take off the seat, body fairing and air box (don’t forget to unplug air temp sensor before you remove the air box),

2. Unplug the motor drive connector that’s under the keihin throttle body on the left side of the bike (connector DR1 from manual). There are 2 connectors and DR1 is one that has more than 3 wires. You will know if you unplug the wrong one by hearing the drive motor working when you use your finger to fully close throttle valve (see repair manual on how to close it with your finger).

3. Now connect TuneECU to the bike and go to diagnostic menu. When its communicating with the bikes ECU you will see most of bikes sensors values appear in Diagnostic menu.

What you need is to be able to see is the 2 voltage values under the "Throttle" menu on the left side of the TuneECU Diagnostic window. Both upper and lower voltage should be round 0.70-0.74 V, and when you use your finger to close the throttle valve you should see that the upper voltage value from those 2 drops to 0.50-0.54V. Now if ANY of these voltages is only 0.1V off from what it should be you need to adjust all 3 readings.

NOTE: Apologies for the screenshot – As it is a shot from my 2011 the figures are obviously not the same as the 2008-2010 model that we are discussing.

4. Check that the upper voltage value drops to 0.50-0.54V when you press the throttle valve to the closed position with your finger. Do this gently as there is a plastic tang that can be damaged. This is referred to in the manual as the Throttle Position Sensor Circuit A Basic Position – Voltage “THAD”.

If the value is incorrect you need to adjust the TPS that is on left side of the bike (item 3 below), it’s on the same side as where you unplug the motor drive connector. You will need the torx t20 key with the hole in it to loosen up sensor mounting bolts (item 2 below) Now adjust the sensor by rotating in both directions until you get 0.50-0.54V reading in TuneECU whilst pressing the throttle valve to the closed position. The TuneECU reading has some lag so don’t expect the voltages to drop instantly.

Now make sure that the voltage reading stays adjusted AFTER you screw the sensor bolts tight.
Release the throttle valve and open and close the throttle 10 times.
Carefully close the throttle valve again with your finger and recheck the reading.
Continue the process until you get a consistent result.

5. Next check that the upper voltage value returns to 0.70-0.74V when you are NOT pressing the throttle valve to the closed position. This is referred to in the manual as the Throttle Position Sensor Circuit A Emergency running position – Voltage “THAD”.

Release the throttle valve and open and close the throttle 10 times.
If the value is incorrect you need to adjust as follows:

Locate the adjustment point on the RH side of the throttlebody.

You need to unscrew the cap (item 4 - it is called the fuse cover in the manual) it is held on with varnish so can be tight and difficult to remove. Once removed it will reveal the adjustment screw and locknut.

Loosen the nut (item 5) and adjust the voltage with screw (item 6).
I found the manual guide not working for me since the top fuse cap was glued on to screw no.6 and nut no.5 was glued so hard to screw no.6 that I needed to take it out completely and use some method to hold screw no.6 while I turn nut no.5.
Also you need to ensure the screw is making contact with the throttle valve so turn it until you see a change in voltage and then back it off until you achieve the correct value.

Once you get this top voltage reading to 0.70-0.74V recheck the value after opening and closing the throttle 10 times until you get consistent results. Refit the cap.

6. Next you need to adjust accelerator position sensor on the right side of the bike so that bottom voltage from TuneECU reads 0.70-0.74V this is called the Throttle Grip Sensor – Voltage “APAD”.

Its same procedure as the TPS only by using sensor on the right hand side of the throttle body (opposite side from the TPS). Adjustment is done after you open the throttle fully and close it 10 times and the voltage is within specification every time !

7. You need to turn the ignition off and back on, then wait until it connects to TuneECU and check AGAIN if all 3 voltages are in still within specification range.

Dont forget to do this after any sensors adjustment!
2014 KTM 690 Enduro R

Rusty Shovel

  • Aimless Ne'er Do Well
  • Administrator
  • Grizzled Adventurer
  • *****
  • Posts: 553
  • Karma: +8/-1
  • Houston, TX
  • Location: Katy, TX
    • View Profile
690 Enduro EFI -- Idiot's Guide link (part V)
« Reply #4 on: February 13, 2014, 09:31:10 am »
Chapter 8


A success story on loading maps

This morning, I have installed the Evo 1 Airbox Lid, £21 from KTM dealer and mapped the bike with the KM765EU11B0232 maps using TuneECU, did the 15min idle initialisation run, turned off ignition, TPS reset, slowly open throttle to 100% and then slowly back down, I did this twice just in case and switch off the bike. During the 15min idle procedure, I even noticed the idle is much better than with standard Akra maps, you get this erratic idling when you start the bike, but with these maps, much better. Idle seems to be around 1650 after the 15mins idle procedure, blipped the throttle in neutral and 1st gear, no stalling so far. Went for a quick ride ... what a difference, it's a new bike, the Akra pipe even sounds better, especially when accelerating hard (front wheel also lifts, idle revs are constant ...

Throttle adjustment story

Sourced from:

Post #144

A couple important notes that I've learned that solved my stalling issues (knock on wood), for now anyway.

When adjusting the second voltage value in TuneEcu (upper voltage value 0.70~.74, butterfly not pressed closed), you adjust it by way of the nut/stud throttle stop adjuster. This is the stud that physically stops the movement of the butterfly when you let the throttle go back to its zero state. In my case, I was getting a voltage within range BUT, and this is a very important BUT... the adjuster stud was not resting against the butterfly stop. I believe this is the reason for my erratic idling, stalling and intermittent low end issues over all. Since the butterfly was not physically resting up against the adjuster stud, once running, it would physically bounce around ever so slightly causing stalling and other weird intermittent issues yet when checked with TuneEcu, was still in spec. So when adjusting this, make sure you screw the adjuster stud in far enough to see the voltage change a few hundredths of a volt, then as your backing it out again, watch the point at which the voltage no longer changes. If the voltage is no longer changing, the adjuster stud is no longer in contact with the butterfly stop. After doing this a few times you can actually feel when it makes contact. It needs to make contact. Having the throttle cables out of adjustment may also affect this.

Something else I ended up doing was adjusting all the voltage levels and then immediately firing it up. I only did the throttle calibration and did not plug in the air box or do the 15 min reset. I'd then see how it idled, test the response, and do quick blips to try and make it stall etc etc. Then once I was content, I waited overnight for a cold start & did the 15 min idle reset. This saved me lots of 15 min idle cycles while I was learning by trial and error as initially I tried many different voltage combinations, all within the allowable spec but just a bit different within the range. In my experience if it stalled before the idle reset, it would also stall after the idle reset.

Bonus 15-Minute Idle Info!

15 min idle stripped bare

Sourced from Inmate AMa as follows:

Quoted from Wunderfest thead:
Originally Posted by sprouty115 
Just got back from my dealer. For $39, he loaded the "...233" map and did an abbreviated idle reset adaptation. Basically pushed the bike outside, started it up and let it idle until the fan came on then said I was good to go. I was always under the impression that it was supposed to be done with the engine cold? I figured I'd just do it myself tomorrow morning unless I was mistaken?

I have heard the same from few other sources. At least one of them is also a KTM dealer. In that case, the customer was advised to perform a longer idle next morning when the engine is cold again.

Let's start from the KTM 690 Service Manual:

Initialization run is advised to do after two things; adjustment of APAD and THAD voltages and ECU flashing (re-mapping). Both include adaptations reset, APAD+THAD operation icludes "ECU Reset" with diagnostics tool and flashing erases the adaptation as the new map is installed.

"Start the engine and perform a initialization run. Guideline: 15 min."

Nothing about throttle calibration or stone cold engine. <- I think this wisdom originates from here:

"2. Idle reset procedure

The 'famous' 15 minute idle reset procedure. This resets the adaptive base values of the ECU. It won't transform the bike but it can make a worthwhile improvement. It is very important that the engine is stone cold. One or two hours after riding is not enough! Do this after the bike has been off for a full night or day. Start the engine and let it idle for 15 minutes without touching anything. After 15 minutes, switch the engine off with the ignition key. Done. During this procedure you won't see or hear anything happening besides the idling and (probably) the fan. Don't worry, the reset is done. Besides after certain maintenance or parts replacement, you could consider doing it twice a year with the turning of the seasons. A reset for the colder autumn & winter period and one time for warmer conditions during spring & summer. This is not mandatory or needed and don't expect miracles."

Where does this come from? Maybe one possibility is KTM 990 initialization. From Tune ECU website:

"990cc models SD, SM, and Adventure:
After download from an new map, you must perform an initialization run.
The 990s must be on the center stand, and are thus stand vertically. For SD / SM models use a Paddock
Stands or the side stand with a piece of wood underneath.
The engine must be cold.
There should be the coolest possible air temperature outside, this can be very helpful for a lower fuel consumption.
Start the engine and let it run at idle for 15 minutes. During these 15 minutes, not use the throttle or any other functions.
The 15 minutes need to be strictly adhered to, and must not fall below. The time can only be exceeded by
a maximum of one minute.
Should the engine go out, then re-start ONLY, do not begin 15 minutes again. (Source: German KTM Forum)

If you want to perform an initialization run only, you must first reset in any case the adaptation.
(Source: LC8 German KTM Forum)"

Sounds familiar to me. These are the guidelines that come up in many KTM sites now and then when discussing KTM 690 15 min idle also.

What does the ECU do during 15 min idle?

It is advised to do after ECU adaptations reset. Clearly the ECU has to adapt to something and I think that it has something to do with intake air temperature (IAT), manifold abolute pressure (MAP), amount of RPM and lambda voltage. Engine's suction and exhaust pressure are changed when hardware has been changed and so is engine's volumetric efficiency (VE) which has a lot to do with the injection pulse width. During the 15 min ECU adjusts injection pulse width and ignition advance as the IAT rises. I think that the ECU is aiming to a leanest possible mix that gives constant idle and is "learning" the right pulse width and ignition advance to whole IAT/coolant temp range. Or adapting to conditions, which are changed after hardware modding. If this is so, the 15 min is not needed for a new map per se, it is needed because the new map has no valid adaptations for current hardware. Also, then 15 min is important every time when hardware has been changed. For example a airbox cover removal or slip-on installation.

What I have experienced:

I have done 15 mins to stone cold, warm and hot engine, maybe 20 to 30 times after re-mapping my bike. Most of the times it has been done stone cold. I have never accomplished to get solid 15 min to warm or hot engine without stalling. Of course it is just my bike, I'm not saying it is impossible. There can always be something else. Also, when 15 min ends prematurely to stall, my bike has always had poor idle and driveability at low rpm. Once the 15 min has been done by dealer, warm engine, stalling and poor idling. The advise was "Well, maybe it gets better with time" .....


I will do the 15 min initialization to stone cold just to be sure. It won't harm anything and I like to keep the loose ends out of the equation.
« Last Edit: February 13, 2014, 09:55:50 am by Rusty Shovel »
2014 KTM 690 Enduro R

Dirk Diggler

  • Wanderer
  • *
  • Posts: 17
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Born free, taxed to death!
  • Location: Beverley, East Yorkshire
    • View Profile
Re: 690 Enduro EFI -- Idiot's Guide link (part I)
« Reply #5 on: December 19, 2015, 01:08:08 pm »
That YouTube video of TuneECU on the Tiger 1050 is me     ;D

Looking forward to getting into the ECU on the KTM next...