http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=931664
Thanks Dave, for the link. The original poster,
El Ponkin at ADVrider, seems to have done his homework! For convenience's sake, I've included the text of his post here. If you want to thanks El Ponkin for donating his time to benefit fellow 690 Enduro owners, you can do so over at ADVrider (
http://www.advrider.com/forums/index.php).
IntroductionMy attempt here is to produce an idiot’s guide basically written by an idiot.
I will placemat the first 10 posts in this thread so that I can put “Chapters” up as I finish them and keep all the facts on the first page of the thread. I have read numerous forums and threads to gather this info and my attempt here is to collate the information into one place in a logical sequence to save you the effort of searching, like I had too. I am not claiming to be an expert I am just acting as a conduit to gather the knowledge of multiple forums and posts into one place.
Some information will be incomplete and some may be incorrect, the idea is I post it up and people can PM me corrections or additional information so it builds into a concise and accurate guide.
If you have questions you can post them up, but make sure the answer is NOT already covered in the guide first and then the collective can come up with the answer and I can add it to the guide.
DisclaimerUsual disclaimer in that any work you do on your own bike is at your own risk and if you are unsure you should be going to a dealer.
If your bike is in warranty anything you do here will void your warranty.
This guide is to help those who are mechanically efficient and computer literate who just want the facts in one place, the guide will not make you an engineer overnight. Don’t mess with your bike unless you are completely confident you know what you are doing and have fully researched the subject.
ResourcesThese are the major sources for the information I have produced.
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=685657http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=666269http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?113690-FREE-KTM-690-Tuning-Software!&
http://www.monomaniacs.nl/tnt/KTM-690/Stalling-and-throttle-issueshttp://www.tuneecu.com/This final one is a site that has training material on the common OBDII Electronic Fuel Management Systems.
Select Technical Articles from the LH Menu and then the relevant courses start from 31.
http://www.autoshop101.com/Books:How to Tune And Modify Motorcycle Engine Management Systems – Tracy Martin
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http://www.jet-metal.com********
Chapter 1
The basics about KTM 690 EFIKTM 690 models all have the same Keihin EFI system. This EFI system is different in a number of ways than on most - if not all - other bikes. It uses a 46mm single valve throttle body with two ECUs. One ECU controls the fuelling & ignition and the other controls the throttle valve through semi ride-by-wire. The ECUs interact with each other communicating over a CAN-BUS connection. The two cables from the throttle grip hook up to the throttle valve but the ECU has the ability to 'take over' if needed. Closing the throttle valve is 'hard wired' for safety reasons. Under normal conditions the throttle valve will follow the commands from the rider 1:1 but if the throttle commands get outside the working parameters of the engine, the ECU will take over controlling the throttle valve in a way that the engine will keep performing to its optimum. For instance; whacking the throttle wide open in a split second at 2500 RPM in 5th gear will normally stall the engine. This is when the throttle ECU takes over and opens the throttle as quickly as the engine will allow without stalling, a neat and sophisticated system that works really well. The fact that you never feel the ECU taking over when riding a 690 kind of shows how good it works.
Basic MappingBecause of the setup with two ECUs the 'mapping' or 'fuel map' for a 690 also consists of two parts/files. A map (file) for the fuelling: ....FIMap.hex and a file for the throttle: ....EPMap.hex. This has led to problems and confusion with both dealers and owners. The two parts of a fuel map belong together and are NOT interchangeable with other fuel maps. When updating or changing the fuel map it is critical that both files are downloaded to the bikes' ECUs.
· EPT map: Determines the amount of throttle body opening relative to handlebar throttle input. Adjustment of this fly-by-wire throttle permits dramatic changes in response of the engine to throttle input. This system is what causes a lot of the twitchiness in the throttle.
· FI map: Determines the amount of fuel delivered depending on engine load, RPM and throttle body input. This map may utilize the oxygen sensor or the SAI (secondary air intake) but these can be selected OFF.
Later we will use a program called TuneECU to access these maps, the program allows us to access certain data from these maps but we do not see all of the functions. You will see that the EPT map takes longer to read than the FI map even though it appears to do less in the way of mapping tables and that is because there are other built in functions that TuneECU will not let us access. The modern engine management systems have monitoring circuits to make sure certain parameters are not exceeded and the result can be a “fuel-cut” signal being sent from the ECU, unfortunately there is very little information available about the effects of this and what parameters are monitored.
The naming convention for map files indicates the year grouping that the map is applicable to, in this example the 11 indicates applicable to 2011 bikes only:
· KM765EU11B0231FIMap.hex
The models EFI systems differ and therefore are grouped according to year model.
A. 2008-2010 – map code 08
B. 2011 – map code 11
C. 2012-2013 – map code 12
Mapsets available for different set ups.There are various KTM Map sets (EPT / FI) available for each of the different year groups as follows:
· Standard – Standard air filter and catalytic converter exhaust.
· Akrapovic – applicable to most performance pipes – runs lean at lower RPMs runs rich up higher.
· EVO1 - applicable to most performance pipes with the addition of the opened up airbox lid. The best map from KTM and the best bike set up.
· EVO2 - applicable to most performance pipes plus the opened up airbox lid plus performance camshaft.
Each mapset actually contains submaps that look like excel spreadsheets that give different values for each combination of RPM,Throttle setting, pressure etc etc. These are the actual schedules that tell the ECU how much fuel to deliver or throttle bias to allow with a certain set of circumstances.
FI Map Submaps:· F submap is the fuel mapping based on throttle position – it shows injection pulse width according to throttle plate opening@ given rpm
· F Trim Adjustment for the fuel table F (in%)
· L submap is the fuel mapping based manifold pressure – injection pulse width according to manifold absolute pressure (MAP) @ given rpm
· I table is the ignition mapping
· I Trim Correction tables for Ignition advance (I) in degrees.
· F-L switch submap sets the threshold where the vacuum mapping goes over into the throttle mapping.
EP Submaps· Throttle submap is the throttle by wire map, shows percentage throttle for each RPM thus affecting the sensitivity of the throttle, 100% is basically 1 to 1 ratio.
There is a different F,L,I and Throttle submap for each number on the map select switch dial under your seat (0,1,2,3) If you are in position 2 on the dial then you will be using L1, F1, I1, and Throttle "performance" submaps.
Obviously KTM have set these tables up to accommodate the different set ups of exhaust and air filter, but remember they have to meet stringent emission regulations and hence the tables all have calculations based on emission regs and not necessarily the optimum settings, later you will see how we can customise these individual submaps to fine tune for optimum performance.
Map Select Switch under the seat
The Map select switch under the seat has 10 positions these relate to the following settings:
0 – Poor fuel
1 – Soft
2 – Performance
3 – Standard (4-9 is the same)
As discussed above these settings will change which submaps the ECU is using to control the engine.
With some of the maps all of the "L" maps are the same, all of the "F" maps are the same and all of the "I" maps are the same (except for "I low octane fuel"). So in these cases, the only change to feel or performance that this switch does is to change the EP map which only affects the throttle sensitivity.
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Chapter 2Diagnosing EFIUnderstand that these bikes have issues with fuel quality and operation of the fuel pump.
The rear filler design and the minute fuel injector nozzle mean that crap can get in and stop the bike. In normal use the pump attracts a grey residue from the fuel tank material that will eventually block filters. Also the plumbing of the pump can get kinked lines and electrical connectors can work loose. So make sure that you eradicate all pump and injector issues before trying to diagnose an EFI fault.
EFI systems are electrically controlled and driven, fault monitoring circuits therefore can only detect electrical faults and monitor for extremes i.e. open circuit or short circuit. If a sensor is misreading it will not be detected as a fault until its parameters go outside of set limits. If any sensors go outside limits you will get a flashing FI light and the KTM operators manual will be able to interpret the “blink” code which is kind of like “morse” code from the FI light blinking so many long and short blinks.
If you have a mechanical fault, a sensor reading incorrectly or an incorrectly adjusted sensor there will be no warning. If you have a combination of a couple of faults it can get very hard to diagnose, particularly if you are dealership mechanic on a tight timeframe servicing a multitude of weaponry you simply won’t have the time to get fully up to speed on one particular model. My thoughts are that you as the owner need to become an expert.
As KTM use a specific KTM diagnostics box to read and adjust the ECUs the price is inhibitive for the general home mechanic however some bright spark came up with a program called TuneECU.
ECU Fault Monitoring
The ECU monitors many items for electrical faults and is looking for them to be in a set range, if outside these values the ECU will give a fault. Several sensors are purely there to fine tune emissions to get the bike to pass the stringent European legislation and in most cases these systems are what upsets the ride- ability of the bike and they can be disabled without any issues.
As there are so many sensors obviously the more you can disable then the less likely you will get a fault. KTM terminology is not consistent through their manuals so some names may vary depending on what manual you are looking at.
· Crankshaft Position Sensor – Determines engine speed and Top Dead Centre position.
· Throttle Position Sensor (Circuit A) – referred to as THAD in the KTM Manual, it is on the LH Side of throttle body and senses the throttle body butterfly valve position.
· Accelerator Position Sensor – referred to as APAD in the KTM Manual, RH Side of throttle body and senses the cable input from the throttle.
· Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor – On top of the throttle body. The engine ECU uses barometric pressure to get ideal air/fuel mixture, thinner air = less fuel. 1013 hPa at sea level and 15 degrees Celsius air temperature is normal pressure. Barometric air pressure will vary from 960 to 1050 hPa. 988 hPa is normal with engine off, when you start the engine and rev it, more suction = less pressure.
· Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor – changes fuel schedule during cold starting. Just below spark plug.
· Intake Air Temperature Sensor – Located inside the airbox and can be damaged by oil contamination. NTC thermistor should be 100k at 25 degrees C.
· Ambient Air Pressure Sensor – Located under the instrument cluster behind the headlight, the sensing tube must be pointing down.
· Rollover Sensor – Like a crash switch, just in behind the rear brake reservoir.
· Lambda Sensor – Senses O2 in the exhaust to trim the fuel mixture a little, turned off with Performance Mapping. Located in the exhaust just below the radiator. Cold engine uses open loop and it switches to closed loop as soon as the lambda sensors reach their operating temperature, This might have something to do with the issue that few people have reported (the bike stalls after 10 s).ECU will use open loop operation in warm engine also whenever there is enough engine load (acceleration). The O2 sensor is only a narrow band sensor and therefore hasn’t got much authority over fuel flow, it can only make slight adjustments , more for emission control.
· System Voltage – EFI systems are sensitive to volts and need a minimum voltage to work.
· Sidestand switch – Can be removed and resistor put in its place.
· Ignition Coil
· Fuel Pump Controller
· Lambda Sensor Heater – Heater in the O2 sensor.
· Fuel Evaporation Valve – USA Models only
· Secondary Air Valve – Commonly called SAI, turned off with Performance Mapping. LH Side mounted by the side of the airbox up near the radiator.
· EPT Motor Drive Relay Permission
· Motor Drive – this electrical motor drives the throttle body butterfly valve.
· Motor Drive Hall Sensor
· Motor Drive Voltage.
· CAN Bus Communication – electronic communication between system components.
· Gear position sensor
According to the KTM tech, the 2011 bikes have different sensors than the previous 690's, so the resistance values maybe different.
Don’ts with EFIAs the EFI system is working on such minute voltage changes the electrical connections in the circuit are critical.
· Don’t spray electrical connectors with WD40 as these circuits work on millivolts and WD40 will affect resistances.
· Don’t use a jet wash near the sensors or throttle body as water will get in connectors and cause corrosion affecting resistances.
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Chapter 3TuneECUTuneECU is a free program that can be used instead of the KTM Diagnostic tool. Please donate to the users if you find the program useful to help them keep the project going.
The program will allow you to access diagnostics, read sensor values, set up sensors, read / reset fault codes and read / change mapping.
EFI systems all follow a set format called OBDII so a standard cable is used just with an adapter lead to the KTM connector under the seat.
It is highly important to buy a good quality cable from a reputable distributor as many have had problems with cheap ebay alternates. I bought mine from here:
http://www.cjdesignsllc.com/.
Use extra care when disconnecting the cable from your bike, by that I mean pull on the right part of the plug housing and not the cable/harness so as not to encourage it coming apart.
So go to this website and read all about it and download and read the user guide to fully understand how it works.
http://www.tuneecu.com/To set the system up on your laptop you will need to download the following:
· The program
· The drivers for the cable (these are specific to your computer operating system – Mine is Windows 7 with 64 bit – see note below ref determining whether 32 or 64 bit).
· The maps
The website has strict recommendations on how and where to store these files on your computer and making sure that the computer is not on the internet when first connecting the lead as you don’t want it to use any drivers from the internet, it must use the specified driver that you download.
Once up to speed with TuneECU you will be able to read and save current maps and flash new ones. You will also be able to access the diagnostics page and read real time sensor values and set up your Throttle Position Sensor.
Installing DriversInstalling the cable drivers is probably the most difficult part of the whole process as computers now automate this process and it can be hard to stop that automatic process to insist on installing your own specific drivers.
These installation guides can help to overcome any issues depending on your operating system:
http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/InstallGuides.htmHow to determine whether your Windows 7 is 32 Bit or 64 Bit.Click the Start button, right-click Computer, and then click Properties.
If "64-bit Operating System" is listed next to System type, you’re running the 64-bit version of Windows 7.
If "32-bit Operating System" is listed next to System type, you’re running the 32-bit version of Windows 7.
Download the corresponding Driver for your cable from here:
http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/D2XX.htmNow watch the video
How to see what Map is loaded on your bikeWhen you are connected with the bike in tune ECU, in Map Edit, you will see ECU info in the top left corner, ECU serial, ECU map, checksum. You can toggle between the two ECUs to each of the two map names by clicking on the map name.
Or
When you are in the Map Edit, you press ECU - then Read Map - and here you can choose to read FI or EP map and the map code stands there to, just click cancel if you don’t want to read them to the computer.
Working with Maps on the bikeWhen you are connected with the bike in tune ECU you must understand that the display panel will tell you what map is loaded on the bike and you can “read” and “save” that map and “download” a new map but you cannot make “live” changes to the currently installed map.
To explain it another way if you wanted to customise the current maps that are on the bike you would have to “read” them to display them in Tune ECU then make the changes in TuneECU before “downloading” them back to the bike. So you can see you only need to connect to the bike to “read”, “save” or “download”. All work to be done to change or customise mapping can be done in TuneECU whilst disconnected from the bike.