Author Topic: 690 Enduro EFI -- Idiot's Guide link (part I)  (Read 6436 times)

Rusty Shovel

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690 Enduro EFI -- Idiot's Guide link (part III)
« on: February 13, 2014, 09:14:04 am »
Chapter 5

Tune ECU Experimentation


For a more in-depth look into customising maps check out this link

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=666269

Warning.

When customising maps you can seriously damage your engine. It is best to have the mapping customised by an expert with the bike on a dyno.



Customising Maps

The F map is usable at high engine load when MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) is close to atmosphere or there is just a little under pressure.

The L map is usable at low engine load, when there is much under pressure.

When you are cruising at suburban speeds the throttle plate is almost completely shut. The pressure in the manifold is very low. L-map starts from 190 hPa, which is approx. 0,19 * atmospheric pressure. KTM 690 fuel pressure is 3,5 bar or 3500 hPa. The amount of fuel being delivered to the manifold is defined by 2 things; pulse width (injector open) + pressure difference. Injecting the same, let's say 8000 µs, at 0,2 bar MAP compared to 0,9 bar MAP makes 19% difference in the amount of fuel injected. That makes a lot in terms of Air Fuel Ratio (AFR). Therefore, you need to match the pulse width to manifold (under) pressure.

The F-L switch map controls the point at which fuel scheduling goes from the L map to the F Map. The F-L map can be tweaked to read 10,10,0,0,0,0,0 and this means that the bike's ECU uses almost all the time the F map. 10 means 10% throttle as a limit to change using F map. At higher revs (1800 and up) the limit is 0%. So the bike is using the F map practically all the time.

The L map is more accurate at low engine load. That's where the jerky ride and stalling gremlin lives. L map has also the ability to adapt to changed airflow conditions like clogged air filter or changing atmospheric pressure (high elevation, barometric low).

In 690cc KTM 690 bikes (2012-) there is no need to tweak the F-L switch map.

The F-maps can be edited in two different ways:

· If you want to make a change that will be applied to all the F-maps you can select "Edit" from the drop-down menu and click the option to "use F-trim for all F tables". Then you can select the F-trim icon in the left hand column and then change all the "0s" to "4s". Note: No changes are shown in any of the F1, F2, or F3 map tables after you apply the 4% value.

· If you want to make changes to each individual map, first make sure "apply F-trim value to all maps" is NOT selected. Then you select a map you want to edit and highlight all the cells. Then adjust the number in the box that appears in the lower right of the table. Hit enter and the map values in the table will update. Select the next F-map and repeat.

The L-maps are changed the same way you change the F-maps individually. You select a map and then highlight all the cells and adjust the number in the box that appears in the lower right of the table. Hit enter and the map values in the table will update. Select the next L-map and repeat.

Always work on a renamed copy of the file and don't forget to save it.

Check out this link to the full process with pics:

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15358449&postcount=13

When you really get into it then read this forum and join the elite:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=685657&page=3

*********

Chapter 6

KTM 690 - Stalling and throttle issues


Sourced from:
http://www.monomaniacs.nl/tnt/KTM-690/Stalling-and-throttle-issues

A lot of 690 owners complain about stalling and/or a jerky throttle response. While there are differences between individual bikes (and their owners...), there seems to be no pattern in models or production years. Some bikes suffer more from stalling and throttle glitches than others. Most don't at all or only occasionally. But these niggles are usually easy to solve!

The fact that KTM 690s are a bit more sensitive to stalling and/or throttle issues is down to two important factors; performance and emission & noise regs. The 690 is one of the strongest 4-stroke singles on the market today, this means a relatively high state of tune, big valves, big ports, big throttle body, high compression, low rotating mass etc. But the 690 also has to meet the ever tougher regulations for emissions and noise. Power & performance do not go hand-in-hand with noise & emissions regs very well, especially not with a big single. The Lambda sensor controlled EFI keeps the engine on a super-lean mixture, catalytic converter(s), Secondary Air System, throttle restriction in 2nd & 3rd gear are all there to make it pass the murdering emission & noise regs. They do not help the engine... they do exactly the opposite. The high performance concept & design of the 690s combined with all the environmental measures makes them more sensitive to the right setup and adjustments.

But we all want that performance so stop moaning and deal with it properly. 95% of the stalling and throttle issues are easily solved and are usually only down to proper service and dealer knowledge.

These are the steps to follow to kill throttle gremlins:

1.Throttle calibration (All)
2.Idle reset procedure (All)
3.Throttle sensor check/adjustment (Values change depending on year model)
4.Idle CO check/adjustment

1. Throttle calibration

The simplest one. This re-calibrates the start & stop position of the throttle grip. Turn the ignition on but don't start. Wait for the tacho needle to return to zero. Then turn the throttle grip gradually from close to open and back from open to closed. Don't let it snap shut. Turn the ignition off, done.

2. Idle reset procedure

The 'famous' 15 minute idle reset procedure. This resets the adaptive base values of the ECU. It won't transform the bike but it can make a worthwhile improvement. It is very important that the engine is stone cold. One or two hours after riding is not enough! Do this after the bike has been off for a full night or day. Start the engine and let it idle for 15 minutes without touching anything. After 15 minutes, switch the engine off with the ignition key. Done. During this procedure you won't see or hear anything happening besides the idling and (probably) the fan. Don't worry, the reset is done. Besides after certain maintenance or parts replacement, you could consider doing it twice a year with the turning of the seasons. A reset for the colder autumn & winter period and one time for warmer conditions during spring & summer. This is not mandatory or needed and don't expect miracles.

3. Throttle sensor check/adjustment

This requires a KTM diagnostics tool hooked up to the bike or use TuneECU as described before. There are two throttle sensors on the throttle body (where the carb used to be...). On the left hand side is the sensor controlled by the ECU. This one is used when the ECU takes over the control of the throttle valve from the rider (ride by wire with data from the throttle map). On the right hand side is the sensor connected to the throttle cables coming from the throttle grip. This is the one that makes you think you're in control. :-) Both sensors interact with each other and each has its own base adjustment. It's not difficult to understand that these are important. The abbreviations in the maintenance & repair manual for these base adjustments are 'THAD' and 'APAD'. The procedure is pretty straightforward but precise. It shouldn't take longer than 20 minutes or so. After adjustment it makes sense to do a “Throttle Calibration” as per step 1 above. On the left side is the TPS "THAD" basic setting is 0.50 - 0.54v this is the throttle position for the ECU throttle butterfly closed with your finger. On the right side is the TPS "APAD" basic setting is 0.70 - 0.74v this is the throttle grip position sensor These settings are from the 2008-2010 manuals (2011 is different and I haven’t found the values yet). Be aware there is a plastic tag on the TPS driving the butterfly so be careful not to break it off by being to rough.

4. Idle & Load CO check/adjustment

This requires a KTM diagnostics tool hooked up to the bike or use TuneECU as described later. There is some control over the idle & load mixture through adjustment of the CO targets from the ECU. This is within a limited bandwith but enough to iron out idle or fueling glitches. Adjustments are made by up & down mouse-clicks with real time bar graphs on the screen that show what happens. Very easy. Only small changes at a time should be made. The effect of changes to the idle CO take a while to show in the graphs. The target for load CO (riding) is usually set at 1.000. This is Lamda 1 and corresponds to an air/fuel mixture of 1:14.7. Adjustment of this value goes in small steps of 0.008 but has a clear effect on the mixture throughout the rev range. Only one or two steps is enough. Not more because the mixture is likely to become too rich or lean. So if the mixture needs to be a little richer (probably) this would be 1.008 or 1.016. Ideally this should be done on a dyno but minor adjustments like this can be done by 'set & ride' too.


After these 4 steps, 99% of all idle and throttle glitches will be solved. Most already after steps 1 to 3. If not, something else is really wrong or malfunctioning but this is rarely the case. If so, there is a big chance the cause will show up on the diagnostics page of TuneECU in the error message log.

Idle Figures

2200 idle rpm when cold is normal, 1650 when hot is normal idle rpm.

D==[#)
2014 KTM 690 Enduro R